It’s like I don’t have a clutch, more or less there’s too much pedal.
To start the car I have to push clutch to the floor in order to make it start. When it started I put in reverse. Releasing clutch slowly, it backed up. Having to push the clutch to the floor again, I shift to first. And before I started to let off clutch (didn't even get to let off) car died on me. I started it back up clutch against floor, this time it didn't die, and it shift OK (still had to floor the clutch, in order to shift) all the way to drop my brothers fiance off at work. I got to the stop sign. Pulling out onto main road shifting from 1st to second gear was okay other than
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Hello – first task is to check the fluid level in your clutch fluid reservoir. This reservoir may be shared with the brake master cylinder – they both use brake fluid. If the fluid level is correct, it sounds like either your clutch master and/or slave cylinders are weak, and not providing adequate clutch actuation, or the pilot bearing has seized. A seized pilot bearing will act the same as a dragging clutch pressure plate, causing difficulty and grinding when selecting a gear. I would recommend a clutch system inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.
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If there is too much freeplay, the clutch may be dragging. Over time the clutch wears down and requires adjustments. The clutch freeplay must checked and adjusted at every 6,000 miles or as specified in the maker`s service schedule.
The most common issue for clutch master and slave cylinders is contamination of the hydraulic fluid or even the wrong type of hydraulic fluid being used. The smallest drop of contaminant, such as engine oil, gearbox oil, washer fluid or antifreeze can cause the rubber seals within the cylinder to swell up overtime.
Hydraulic clutch control systems are fairly simple. They consist of a master cylinder that is connected to the clutch pedal via a pushrod, and a slave cylinder that acts on the clutch via a linkage or control arm, commonly known as a clutch fork since it resembles a fork with two tines.
Anything less than the correct amount of free play (or clearance) will result in clutch slip, because the pressure plate will be unable to exert its full pressure on the friction plate. Failure to cure this fault will quickly lead to a burned-out friction plate, and possibly a ruined pressure plate.
Worn out clutch cable Connecting the clutch pedal to the linkage of the transmission system, the clutch cable, if broken or too much stretched, will make the clutch pedal hard to engage. If this happens, you will have to put much more force on the pedal to engage and disengage the clutch.
The big advantage of hydraulic linkages is that they`re self-adjusting—the clutch linkage itself doesn`t require adjustment as the clutch wears. And they give a very uniform pedal feel, even if it`s perhaps not as visceral as a mechanical clutch.
Improved Feel: Hydraulic clutches have a smoother and more positive feel compared to clutch cables, making shifting gears easier and more enjoyable. Adjustability: Hydraulic clutches are adjustable, allowing the driver to adjust the clutch engagement and disengagement points to suit their preferences.
Although some hydraulic clutches can be adjusted, many are self-adjusting. Check in your car handbook or service manual. If slip occurs on a self-adjusting clutch, the clutch has to be overhauled. If drag occurs, the hydraulics may be at fault (See Checking and removing a clutch master cylinder ).
Much like a brake pedal, there is a specific ratio that you need to achieve in order for the pedal to be easy to operate. For hydraulic clutch systems, that ratio is 6:1. Manual clutches are different from hydraulics, they use a bell-crank system that increases the effectiveness of your clutch pedal.
Many people prefer a mechanical clutch because it has a better feel compared to a hydraulic one, but a mechanical clutch sometimes requires adjustment as the clutch wears. Hydraulically actuated clutches tend to self-adjust so long as there`s fluid in the reservoir, and they are often easier to fit into a given space.
Clutches can be categorized into two main classifications: friction clutches and fluid flywheel. Friction clutches rely on the principle of friction.
Most brake and clutch pedals should have just a little bit of free play, usually about a centimeter, which is less than half an inch. If you feel that your free play is more generous than this, or that you don`t have any at all, you`ll need to adjust your pedals.
Most brake and clutch pedals should have just a little bit of free play, usually about a centimeter, which is less than half an inch. If you feel that your free play is more generous than this, or that you don`t have any at all, you`ll need to adjust your pedals.
Often drivers will rev hard whilst riding the clutch to avoid rolling back whilst doing a hill start, but this technique can seriously damage your clutch.
Does holding the clutch down damage it? There is a part called a clutch release bearing, which is what transfers force between the rotating assembly and the non-rotating parts that the pedal actuates. Holding down the clutch a lot puts a little bit of wear on that bearing.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
It’s like I don’t have a clutch, more or less there’s too much pedal.
ANSWER : Hello – first task is to check the fluid level in your clutch fluid reservoir. This reservoir may be shared with the brake master cylinder – they both use brake fluid. If the fluid level is correct, it sounds like either your clutch master and/or slave cylinders are weak, and not providing adequate clutch actuation, or the pilot bearing has seized. A seized pilot bearing will act the same as a dragging clutch pressure plate, causing difficulty and grinding when selecting a gear. I would recommend a clutch system inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.
Read Full Q/A … : It’s like I don’t have a clutch, more or less there’s too much pedal.
Supportive bar attached to brake pedal interrupts proper braking process
ANSWER : It’s possible to have someone alter the brake pedal or adapt a brake pedal from a different vehicle. You may call around to some customization shops to see if anyone is interested in taking on the project. But first, I would try reaching out to the selling dealer with your concern – especially since it is a new model. Good luck.
Read Full Q/A … : It’s like I don’t have a clutch, more or less there’s too much pedal.
I can’t go into 4th or 5th gear and clutch does not engage after a recent clutch job, clutch release while in gear does nothing.
ANSWER : I would rule out the axle not being pushed all the way in. That would effect all speeds and gears. That you can engage gears other than 4th and 5th leads me to 2 m possibilities:
1. Shift linkage mis-adjusted.
2. Possible bent shifter fork internally.
1. Shift linkage mis-adjusted.
2. Possible bent shifter fork internally.
If it feels like you can engage 4th and 5th with the engine OFF, then I would lean towards a clutch release issue.
Read Full Q/A … : It’s like I don’t have a clutch, more or less there’s too much pedal.
Clutch pedal stays to floor. Replaced master cylinder. Clutch push rod broke. Also do I need to change slave cylinder
ANSWER : If you have an issue with your clutch pedal going to the floor, the slave cylinder is normally the cause of this circumstance.
Also, if the push rod has been broken the first step would be to track down a new one because that push rod is a very necessary part of the clutch pedal system.
Once a new push rod has been located and installed, I would recommend having a new slave cylinder installed as well.
If you are in doubt about this repair, I would recommend having it performed by a qualified professional, such as one from YourMechanic. One of our mobile technicians will be able to come to your home to diagnose the issue with your clutch pedal and replace your clutch slave cylinder as necessary.
Read Full Q/A … : It’s like I don’t have a clutch, more or less there’s too much pedal.
Clutch pedal didn’t engage and slipped when shifting
ANSWER : Hey there, thanks for writing in about your 2014 Nissan 370Z. It sounds like there may have been a spot of moisture in the light or a component in the clutch hydraulic system may be malfunctioning. Moisture can cause problems during operation when the clutch gets hot and failing hydraulic components can cause the system to lose pressure and slip which will heat up the clutch. If you would like to have this done, a professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to inspect the clutch pedal and perform the appropriate repairs.
Read Full Q/A … : It’s like I don’t have a clutch, more or less there’s too much pedal.
Soft clutch, topped off clutch fluid reservoir and clutch pedal became firm/springing back on its own.
ANSWER : It is most common for the clutch hydraulic leak to be from a leaking clutch slave cylinder. You should have the clutch hydraulic system inspected by YourMechanic to see why the fluid is getting low. The fluid gets low anytime there is a leak in the system. You may need to have the clutch slave cylinder replaced. If the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are both need replaced then it is a good idea to have both the clutch master and slave cylinders replaced together as a pair.
Read Full Q/A … : It’s like I don’t have a clutch, more or less there’s too much pedal.
Clutch not working after replacing slave cylinder and master cylinder
ANSWER : Hello. We will be happy to help you with your vehicle. It sounds like you have a problem with your throw out bearing. You would likely need to drop the transmission once again and check that the installation of the throwout bearing is proper. You may also try to peel back the boot around the slave cylinder to see inside of the transmission. By doing so you may be able to see possible damages on the throwout bearing. It will be a great idea to use a stethoscope before you take the vehicle back apart to help pinpoint exactly what portion of the transmission coming from. Another very important thing that you should check are your axle’s, make sure they are seated correctly inside of the transmission.
Read Full Q/A … : It’s like I don’t have a clutch, more or less there’s too much pedal.
Clutch engaged with pedal up or down issue? 2006 Mazda 3
ANSWER : Hi there – there are several possibilities here – none of them pleasant, and all will require removal of the transmission to get to the failed bit. It is possible the pilot bearing has seized up – which would make it seem as though the clutch were engaged, regardless of whether the clutch pedal was depressed (and working properly) or not. It’s also possible the clutch pressure plate "fingers" where the throwout bearing applies forced from the clutch pedal and hydraulics are damaged in some fashion, and will not compress to release the clutch disc. Last and least likely is a failure of the clutch master cylinder – internally – since there doesn’t appear to be any fluid loss. I recommend a clutch inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.
Read Full Q/A … : It’s like I don’t have a clutch, more or less there’s too much pedal.
