2013 Ford Focus Transmission Issue. Is it worth keeping the car?

ANSWER : Hi There,
This is a known issue in this generation Ford Focus and some Fiestas with the "Power Shift" transmission and there have been numerous recalls and lawsuits. Although, it is would be difficult to determine how much longer your transmission will last given the fact that you have many new parts, I would not recommend junking the car as it may still provide some valuable life left for you. I would recommend taking it to the dealer to see if these parts may be covered under the recall.

ANSWER : Hi there. Typically when you hear a grinding noise when you move forward or in reverse it’s usually an indication of a gear fault either in the transmission or another driveline component. If this occurs only when in reverse, it’s likely a damaged reverse gear. It is also possible that it’s a hydraulic fluid issue not supplying enough lubrication or pressure inside the lines to fully open the gear. I would recommend having a professional mechanic come to your location and complete a car is hard to shift inspection, so they can diagnose the source of your issue and recommend repairs that should resolve this problem.

ANSWER : There are reports that the replacement alternators will not communicate with the engine computer and will not charge correctly. I recommend using only the manufacturer approved replacement part. It can be new or remanufactured but approved for use in the vehicle. Some lower cost alternators on the aftermarket will have charging problems since they will not communicate with the ECM on the vehicle and will stop charging.

ANSWER : This sounds like a faulty speed sensor problem. Most cars have two speed sensors (one monitors input shaft and one monitors output shaft) which tell the computer what the gear ratio is of the transmission while in use. If either of these are not working properly, they will cause the computer to shut the car off for safety reasons. I would suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home to diagnose your stalling issuee and help you repair it.

ANSWER : This kind of reaction is often a sign of low transmission fluid or a faulty transmission control solenoid. As you know, automatic transmissions use pressurized hydraulic fluid to change gears. Every time a gear change is required, the car’s computer activates a transmission solenoid, which directs transmission fluid into the valve body to engage the correct gear. When this is faulty or not working properly, this can cause a delay in gear shifting or in some cases cause the car to not shift at all. This type of problem is amplified any time the transmission is low on fluid creating a drop in hydraulic pressure. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

ANSWER : Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you

ANSWER : Before I would make the purchase of the vehicle I would recommend first locating a replacement transmission for the vehicle. Then you will know how much the part will cost and then just need to get pricing on replacement clutch assembly and the labor to do all the work. You may find it very hard to locate a replacement manual transmission and even harder to find repair parts for the insides of the transmission. You are talking about a vehicle that is 30 years old.

ANSWER : It sounds like you have 2 problems here, the starter and an engine stalling problem. The starter problem is probably the starter solenoid, a power switch (integrated into the starter assembly) that takes a small current from the ignition switch and engages a large current at the starter. The contacts in the solenoid can burn over time, "sticking", which can cause the starter "run-on" like you described, and a "no crank" condition, because the same burned contacts don’t pass heavy current very well. The poor idling may be due to a dirty idle air control valve, dirty throttle body, or air leak in the intake system of the engine. I would recommend having YourMechanic dispatch a mobile, professional mechanic to your location to do a (Starter Replacement)[https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/starter-replacement] and car starting trouble inspection.