When I try to stop I either have to pump my breaks to stop or my wheels lock and stop my car and I am going threw brake fluid

I am going threw break fluid and sometimes I have to pump my break paddle to come to a stop and sometimes the back tired lock and brings the car to a stop what could my problem be and how do I fix it

My car has 47209 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello. I would start by checking the brakes. A loss of fluid indicates a fluid leak. Most of the time this comes from either one of the calipers or wheel cylinders. It may also be the master cylinder from the description you are giving. The only way to know for sure what is going on is by inspecting the brakes. If you want to have this done, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose this and provide you with a brake fluid service if necessary.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

Air in the Lines: The number one most common cause for pumping your brakes to get them to work is air in the lines. This may be because your brakes were recently serviced but not bled correctly.
Brake Pedal Needs Pumping to Slow Down the Vehicle

A driver should get the brake system investigated by a mechanic if s/he needs to repeatedly pump the brakes to slow the vehicle down. Pumping the brake pedal could indicate a fluid leak or a worn-out master cylinder.

Common Reasons Brake Lock Up

Overheated braking system. Using the wrong brake fluid. Damaged or broken parts (calipers, brake pads, pistons, rotors, or others) Defective ABS components.

Brake System Leak

Unresponsive brakes or the `brake pedal goes to floor` symptom is a possible indication of a leak in your braking system. With a leak, an incorrect amount of hydraulic fluid will flow through your brake system— hindering your braking ability. A brake system leak could stem from many sources.

If you have to pump your brakes, two causes come to mind. Either there is air in your lines, caused by a poorly done brake job or your master cylinder has worn cups. My best guess is that Natraj is on target here. If you had brake work done, they did not properly bleed the system.
Don`t: Pump your brakes or take your foot off the brake pedal, because that will release the anti-lock system. ONLY pump your brake if the ABS fails and your vehicle starts to skid. Drive aggressively.
A bad ABS module can behave erratically, making your brakes lock up even under normal braking. You might even notice unusual behavior from the brakes, like random clicking noises.
The brake pads are worn out. An ABS sensor needs replacing. The rotors are rusty, dirty, or otherwise mucky. The brake rotors are warped or pitted.
In certain cases, depending on the model of vehicle, when the ABS module fails, the brake pedal may become unresponsive. This is an obvious problem, as an unresponsive brake pedal will not stop a vehicle, or will not be able to do so in an adequately safe manner. In most cases, this will happen slowly, over time.
This can be due to a number of problems: a leak in a brake line, a loss of pressure within the master cylinder itself due to a failed seal, or air being introduced into the braking system. Your first reaction to encountering spongy brakes should be to rapidly pump the brake pedal with your foot.
If you feel a strange sensation when you press the brake pedal of your car, this may be due to a damaged brake pump. A faulty pump can mean that the pedal in your car feels spongy, soft or hollow when you step on it to brake. In this case, the brake pedal sinks and does not return to its original position.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

When I try to stop I either have to pump my breaks to stop or my wheels lock and stop my car and I am going threw brake fluid
ANSWER : Hello. I would start by checking the brakes. A loss of fluid indicates a fluid leak. Most of the time this comes from either one of the calipers or wheel cylinders. It may also be the master cylinder from the description you are giving. The only way to know for sure what is going on is by inspecting the brakes. If you want to have this done, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose this and provide you with a brake fluid service if necessary.

I was stopped on the freeway, started to go about 5 mph, the car jerked and stop without warning like the wheels locked up.
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. I’d be happy to try to help. It is hard to definitively diagnose what the issue is. At first it seems like a transmission issue. Automatic transmissions are rather complicated and can do strange things when they malfunction. If not an issue with the transmission, you could also have a clutch issue. Always start by checking the simple components first. Check your transmission fluid level. Make sure your transmission filter is clean and debris free. When you have the transmission pan off, you can look and see if there are any metal shavings at the bottom. There is often a small magnet at the bottom of the pan designed to gather any metal shavings for a quick diagnosis. This is a sign of more serious transmission problems. Unless you have experience with automatic transmissions, it is not recommended that major repairs be done at home. I suggest taking your car to a transmission specialist for help.

abs light on brake line broke have been replace I bleed brake line but brake pad still go to the floor now wheels lock up
ANSWER : Hello. If the brake pedal is going to the floor then that means that it is not building pressure. If the brake system has been fully bled and there is no air in it then most of the time it is a bad master cylinder or it can be caused by a bad ABS module. If the brake fluid was low and if air got into the system then the only way to properly bleed it is with a scan tool that would allow you to open and close the valves in the ABS unit. Air gets trapped in these easily if the brake fluid gets low. This can also explain why the brakes are locking up. I would usually use my scan tool to bleed the system out first before going any further. I would also scan the brake control module to see what it is reading as a fault. If there is no air in the system and if there is no prominent code then I would replace the master cylinder first. If you want to check out why your brakes are locking up, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose and repair this.

ABS brakes lock up
ANSWER : It sounds like the traction control system and the ABS system may have been activated as a result of the bumpy road you were driving on. Your car is equipped with wheel speed sensors at each of the four wheels which monitor wheel speed while relaying this information constantly to the ABS and traction control system which are controlled by the car’s ECU. When the ECU senses an abnormal speed given specific conditions, it engages the ABS or traction control as needed to control the vehicle properly and safely. Occasionally, these sensors can fail or become faulty working intermittently sending inaccurate signals to the ECU. When this happens, you may experience the symptoms you have described. The ABS or traction control system may be inadvertently activated by these false or inaccurate signals. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your home to diagnose your ABS and traction control system.

Shifting from 2nd to 3rd, car stopped going fast. Now it won’t go at all.
ANSWER : It is possible that your clutch has failed. The sound you are hearing is likely due to the clutch not engaging with the engine due to it being worn. I would recommened having your transmission inspected by a qualified transmission expert to determine if your clutch requires replacement in order to resolve this issue. This inspection may require removal and partial disassembly of the transmission in order to verify that the clutch has failed.

Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away
ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.

If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Driver has to pump brake pedal multiple times to brake
ANSWER : I’m not familiar with a pump assisting the system, but the master cylinder creates the hydraulic pressure needed to transfer power from your floor to the brake assemblies. A failing master cylinder can feel like a leak in the hydraulic system as it cannot create the proper pressure. Have a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, physically inspect the brake system for any actual leaks as well.

Front Passenger Lock sometimes does not lock with a remote control or by locking button located on either doors.
ANSWER : The solenoid is on the door latch and is most likely the cause of the problem for your 2005 Toyota Tacoma. If you want to have this inspected and repaired, a certified technician from YourMechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose your door lock and perform the correct replacement.