I was stopped on the freeway, started to go about 5 mph, the car jerked and stop without warning like the wheels locked up.
I was stopped on the freeway, started to go about 5 mph, the car jerked and stop without warning like the wheels locked up for about 3 minutes. Nothing happened, car wouldn't go, I put car in reverse it went then I put it in drive and it went . I was able to get off freeway and take the streets home. But it kept doing a jerking motion like it wanted to cut out again so when I would gain speed I put car in neutral and coast until needing to stop
My car has 87642 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi, thanks for writing in. I’d be happy to try to help. It is hard to definitively diagnose what the issue is. At first it seems like a transmission issue. Automatic transmissions are rather complicated and can do strange things when they malfunction. If not an issue with the transmission, you could also have a clutch issue. Always start by checking the simple components first. Check your transmission fluid level. Make sure your transmission filter is clean and debris free. When you have the transmission pan off, you can look and see if there are any metal shavings at the bottom. There is often a small magnet at the bottom of the pan designed to gather any metal shavings for a quick diagnosis. This is a sign of more serious transmission problems. Unless you have experience with automatic transmissions, it is not recommended that major repairs be done at home. I suggest taking your car to a transmission specialist for help.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
The most common reasons a Dodge Avenger engine stalling are the fuel system, the air intake system, or the ignition system.
An indication that a vehicle is not receiving the right mixture of air and fuel is if the vehicle jerks or surges forward at high speed. Several components of the fuel or air intake system could cause this jerking or surging sensation to happen. Issues within these systems can also cause fuel economy to worsen.
The most common sensor which can lead to your car stalling is the manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) or the mass air flow sensor (MAF). Most cars typically have one or the other.
An engine that is hesitating to accelerate is most likely dealing with a fuel/air mixture that is too lean. Engine`s that are running inefficiently will begin to show signs like hesitation which will only become worse over time.
The Dodge Avenger can last 200,000 miles with proper care and maintenance.
If the vehicle randomly shuts off while driving or stationary, there is usually an issue with the engine. Typical patterns here are issues with the ignition system, mixture preparation or fuel. A known error here is that the vehicle was refueled with the wrong type of fuel.
The most common reason for a car jerk while accelerating is that one or more of your spark plugs may be going bad, which will lessen performance if the problem persists. If you think this might be the case, have a professional check them and replace them if necessary.
If the vehicle randomly shuts off while driving or stationary, there is usually an issue with the engine. Typical patterns here are issues with the ignition system, mixture preparation or fuel. A known error here is that the vehicle was refueled with the wrong type of fuel.
A faulty crankshaft position sensor will be unable to identify the exact piston position, triggering an engine misfire. This causes your car to shut off while driving. A drop in performance, fuel efficiency, rough engine, etc., are some important symptoms of a damaged crankshaft position sensor.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I was stopped on the freeway, started to go about 5 mph, the car jerked and stop without warning like the wheels locked up.
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. I’d be happy to try to help. It is hard to definitively diagnose what the issue is. At first it seems like a transmission issue. Automatic transmissions are rather complicated and can do strange things when they malfunction. If not an issue with the transmission, you could also have a clutch issue. Always start by checking the simple components first. Check your transmission fluid level. Make sure your transmission filter is clean and debris free. When you have the transmission pan off, you can look and see if there are any metal shavings at the bottom. There is often a small magnet at the bottom of the pan designed to gather any metal shavings for a quick diagnosis. This is a sign of more serious transmission problems. Unless you have experience with automatic transmissions, it is not recommended that major repairs be done at home. I suggest taking your car to a transmission specialist for help.
Charging warning light comes on when i turn the key and try to start the car and the car want start but when someone tried to give
ANSWER : Hi there:
If you recently replaced your battery, the issue may be caused by a malfunctioning alternator or other electrical component that comprises the charging system on your Nissan Sentra. The best way to find out which item specifically is faulty, is to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection. This will allow the mechanic to determine the precise source of what’s going on with your Sentra and recommend or complete the right repairs.
What’s wrong with my car?
ANSWER : This may actually be a faulty throttle position sensor. The throttle position sensor is used to monitor the throttle position of the throttle plate inside the throttle body in relation to your foot position on the gas pedal. Based upon the inputs from the sensor reading your foot’s position on the pedal, the ECU then makes the direction to supply more or less fuel to the motor. When this sensor is not working properly, this can cause intermittent responses when pressing the gas pedal. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to you home to diagnose your throttle control system.
When driving and going over 55 mph the car starts shaking like it is going to cut off.
ANSWER : Hi there! There are several reasons why your TL can act this way.
First off, if this behavior is predominantly after the car has been sitting overnight or longer, it can be the result of "flat-spotting" – the low profile tires, with very stiff sidewall, develop "flat spots" where the tire sits on the pavement. This is overcome with 5-10 miles of highway driving, and the tire heat up a bit, and air pressure in the tire makes them round again.
The second possibility is out-of-balance tire/wheel combinations. Your tire shop can check the balance for you, and correct balance if necessary.
The third possibility is an axle with bad CV joints. If the CV joints are worn, they essentially "wobble", and this vibration is transmitted into the structure of the vehicle – which you could feel both with the steering wheel, and "seat-of-the-pants".
To avoid any unnecessary repairs, I would recommend having the shaking symptom diagnosed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, to diagnose this problem, get an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.
My car will not start Intermittently. I purchased a new battery 2 weeks ago and yesterday the car wouldn’t start. Got a jump and
ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
Shifting from 2nd to 3rd, car stopped going fast. Now it won’t go at all.
ANSWER : It is possible that your clutch has failed. The sound you are hearing is likely due to the clutch not engaging with the engine due to it being worn. I would recommened having your transmission inspected by a qualified transmission expert to determine if your clutch requires replacement in order to resolve this issue. This inspection may require removal and partial disassembly of the transmission in order to verify that the clutch has failed.
I go over 50mph and my car starts making like a scraping noise on my right fromt wheel any ideas what it could be?
ANSWER : It sounds like you may have a failing or worn out wheel bearing. A wheel bearing will usually fail due to pitting or small damage on the surface of the rollers or the bearing race. Both the surface of the rollers and the race is precision machined to tight tolerances and highly polished to allow the rollers to pass easily over the race with the addition of bearing grease for lubrication and cooling. Over time the bearing will wear slightly, allowing microscopic pieces of metal into the grease. Bearing noise can sound a lot like a brake pad dragging or grinding. It can also sound like whirring, whining or humming depending on how much sound deadening material your vehicle has in it. Bearing noise will always be dependent on vehicle speed meaning as you speed up or slow down the noise should change frequency or loudness. Cornering may affect the noise from a damaged front wheel bearing and is usually more pronounced as you make turns. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
When I try to stop I either have to pump my breaks to stop or my wheels lock and stop my car and I am going threw brake fluid
ANSWER : Hello. I would start by checking the brakes. A loss of fluid indicates a fluid leak. Most of the time this comes from either one of the calipers or wheel cylinders. It may also be the master cylinder from the description you are giving. The only way to know for sure what is going on is by inspecting the brakes. If you want to have this done, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose this and provide you with a brake fluid service if necessary.
