Take key out car jeeps running sometimes. Then as oil and battery light want go off unless u take it slowly out
When I park my car and turn car off and take the key out it will keep running itself and I will have to put key back in and turn it to the on position and car will go off but I will turn it left slowly and I will have to take it slowly for the battery oil and sea light to go off otherwise it want I don't know what's wrong but I would love to get issue resolved please help
My car has 206 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
It seems as if your ignition switch is malfunctioning. Your ignition switch is the part that you stick your key into. This part is responsible for controlling different circuits based on the position of the key. It seems like the switch can no longer realize which position it is in due to an internal failure and now the issues you are experiencing have occurred. I would recommend seeking out a qualified professional to test your ignition switch. If the ignition switch turns out to be the cause of this issue, I would recommend having the ignition switch replaced. If you need help with this repair, YourMechanic offers a repair and diagnosis service preformed by a certified mechanic that will commute to your location to replace your ignition switch.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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If your vehicle engine continues to run after the ignition switch is turned off that means the ignition switch is defective and/or the ignition is still being powered from “elsewhere” in the circuit even though the switch is “off”.
Most of the time, the issue is in the ignition switch. The switch fails internally and causes some circuits to stay on which will drain the battery. It can also be a short in the harness or in the fuse box but the ignition switch is the most common on this car.
Usually, in a simple system (not ecu controlled), the light illuminates when ignition on, engine off. This is because the light has two feeds – one from the battery, one from the alternator. The voltage differential across the bulb is high enough that it illuminates, as a warning that your alternator is not charging.
If your car is not turning off, and you are unable to remove the key, that may be sign that the ignition lock, or possibly switch, has gone bad. A failed ignition lock or switch can sometimes fail, and jam mechanically, leaving you unable to insert, turn, or remove the key.
This is usually a sign of a faulty starter solenoid. There are a few wires that connect to the starter solenoid coming from the battery, the starter, and the ignition switch.
Sometimes a bad starter solenoid, instead of preventing the engine from starting, may cause it to start on its own without the key being turned to the “start” position.” This less-common problem can be dangerous and should be addressed immediately.
A blown fuse could be a cause of the battery light to come on. Excessive voltage in the electrical system can blow the fuse and prevent charging of the battery. A electrical technician can replace the fuse quickly and it an inexpensive fix.
The alternator belt is the connection that interfaces the crankshaft and alternator together. If your car`s alternator belt isn`t working properly, your car battery won`t get the charge it needs for your vehicle`s electrical parts. With that, your car battery light will frequently be on to indicate such an issue.
A typical problem with the ignition switch is when your car fails to start. This sign forces you to keep making attempts to turn the engine, draining and, therefore, killing your battery.
If the warning light fails to illuminate when the ignition is turned on, there are two possible causes. One is that the warning light bulb may simply have blown. This could be due to old age. The other possibility is a fault in the charging circuit – if the generator is overcharging it may cause the bulb to blow.
The ignition relay is one of the most important electronic relays found on modern vehicles. It is usually located in the fuse and relay panel beneath the bonnet, and is responsible for providing power to the vehicle`s ignition system, and some of the fuel system`s components.
If your key fob dies while driving, nothing will happen. The car will continue to operate simply because the key fob is an unlocking and starting device only.
“A key fob will constantly try to communicate with the car. And that does cause a slight drain on the battery, but generally that won`t completely drain a healthy car battery,” says Mike Monticello, Consumer Reports` road test manager. “The key fob is, in a sense, causing the issue.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Take key out car jeeps running sometimes. Then as oil and battery light want go off unless u take it slowly out
ANSWER : It seems as if your ignition switch is malfunctioning. Your ignition switch is the part that you stick your key into. This part is responsible for controlling different circuits based on the position of the key. It seems like the switch can no longer realize which position it is in due to an internal failure and now the issues you are experiencing have occurred. I would recommend seeking out a qualified professional to test your ignition switch. If the ignition switch turns out to be the cause of this issue, I would recommend having the ignition switch replaced. If you need help with this repair, YourMechanic offers a repair and diagnosis service preformed by a certified mechanic that will commute to your location to replace your ignition switch.
Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away
ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.
If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
Car won’t start. The check engine light, battery light, and oil change light are coming on. I tried jumping the car and nothing happened. Why won’t my car start?
ANSWER : Hi and thanks for contacting Your Mechanic. If sometimes your vehicle will start with the new alternator and sometimes it won’t, then there is a loose connection in your charging system. Check all of the wires to the alternator and to the battery. Make sure that the battery cables are clean and tight. Make sure that the wires to the starter are clean and tight. A loose ground to the ignition system will cause the vehicle to not crank over. Check all of the ground wires from the battery to the starter. Make sure that they are clean and tight. If you need further assistance troubleshooting your no start situation, then seek out a technician, such as one from Your Mechanic, that can assist you.
Car want start unless boosted, alternator good and battery good, while boosted the car crank in the key off position.
ANSWER : You should request a starter circuit diagnostic to get this resolved. If you want to attempt to diagnose it yourself, first perform a load test on the battery just to be sure that the battery is not an issue. If the battery happens to be discharged when you attempt that test, suspect a parasitic current draw in your car’s electrical system which is depleting the battery while the car is off, thus making it impossible to start the car at next use. If the battery does pass a load test and yet there is no starter operation with the key held in the "start" position, the procedure is to test for power and voltage drops to the starter motor/solenoid. If there is no power, or a large voltage drop is measured, then the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch, neutral start switch, and terminations. Basically, with a fully charged battery, and with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. With the key in the "start" position, if the starter motor is getting power but the starter doesn’t work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. Note that starters can and sometimes do develop intermittent faults due to bad spots on the armature. The bottom line is if there is battery voltage to the starter (and no excessive voltage drop) and yet the starter doesn’t work, it’s dead. If you want these steps performed by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request a starter circuit diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you.
With regard to the power steering issue, in 2014 GM recalled many vehicles, including your model, to address problems with the power steering system. Depending on the vehicle GM was to replace either the power steering motor, the steering column, the power steering motor control unit or a combination of the steering column and the power steering motor control unit. You should check to see if the required repairs were made on your vehicle but, if not, whether you are still eligible. If you are not covered for the repairs, YourMechanic will diagnose and resolve the issue for you if you request a power steering warning light diagnostic. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
i was driving and my oil light kept going off. Car had oil. Car wouldn’t accelerate. Car died. It does not turn engine over now.
ANSWER : It is very possible that the engine has been damaged beyond repair. Usually when the oil light goes on and the vehicle is low on oil, especially when a loud noise is heard right before the vehicle died, it is very likely that the engine is blown and would require replacement in order to continue driving the vehicle. I would recommend having the vehicle checked with a no start inspection. Consider YourMechanic as this service can be completed at your home or office.
car dome light wont go off with key in the ignition cant turn dome light on maumally every frw day car has to be jumped off
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The dome light is triggered by several different switches, and one of them is stuck on. One thing you can do until you diagnose the issue, is unplug the fuse for the light. This should help the battery issue until the problem is resolved. You will have the best luck tracing the voltage supply with a voltmeter to the switch that is giving it power. You will also benefit from a wiring diagram of the circuit. If you do not have a voltmeter, it is a guessing game. You will want to attempt to turn the light off with the door switch (located in the door jam), and at the dashboard switch. Unplugging one of these components should turn the light off, and then you know what your problem is. For more diagnostic help, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.
Car battery light constantly goes on and off.
ANSWER : Hello. The fact that the car struggles when you take the jumper cables off suggests that the battery is not able to maintain a charge on its own. I would recommend checking the alternator and the voltage regulator as these two components work together to maintain the battery charge. I suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home or office to diagnose the battery light and make the necessary repairs.
in my car battery warning light appearing while driving.so I have replaced both battery and alternater still light is on
ANSWER : As you may yourself have seen, there are many reports of this fault with the Civic, that is a battery or alternator is replaced only to have the warning light fail to extinguish despite checking every conceivable electrical possibility. Your only recourse is to have a certified mechanic go through that exercise with your car and that involves first attempting to "re-set" the light. If the warning light returns, the alternator output has to be carefully measured both loaded and unloaded. All terminal connections have to be verified including all grounds. Fuses have to be checked for integrity (continuity) and the possibility of shorts, in for example dash wiring, has to be checked. To request this repair, simply request an electrical components diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will seek a resolution to this.
