I put new alternator, brought new battery crank car battery gauge do not go any further than half and start dropping while driving
I put new alternator, brought new battery crank car battery gauge do not go any further than half and start dropping while driving and car shut down all power goes
My car has an automatic transmission.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
You can verify alternator drive belt tension and measure charging system output at the battery posts. If the voltage output at the battery is with the required specification (roughly 13.8 to 14.4 volts but varies by model), check the condition of the battery. Batteries can be load tested to determine condition even if they are new. If despite normal charging system output, and a fully verified (100% charged) battery, you are still experiencing loss of electrical power, a circuit diagnostic will have to be performed to pinpoint the cause. If you desire that that diagnostic be performed by a certified mechanic, please use YourMechanic’s charging system/battery diagnostics service page and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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It is possible that the problems that you have been experiencing with the bad alternators have damaged the battery causing it to be weak. This would make the Battery Light come on. It is also possible that there is a problem with the fusible link or the alternator fuse for the charging system.
One of the most common reasons the battery light comes on and the car battery stops charging is because of corrosion. Whether the corrosion is on the battery cables or cable terminals, it is still a problem that needs to be addressed. Another common culprit for the battery not charging is a problem with the alternator.
Contrary to its purpose, an alternator can drain a battery. It`s rare, but it`s possible. A draw on the battery only occurs if there`s a problem with either a component in the alternator itself or connections to it.
“If the [battery`s] voltage is low, replace with a new battery or charge the battery to the recommended 14.2 to 14.7 volts,” he says. “Then try to run the vehicle and see if the voltage after is outside of that range. If it is, that`s a sign of a bad alternator.”
The batteries connectors can jostle loose sometimes or terminals might corrode. This will either cause the engine to shut down completely or the battery won`t fully transmit power. To solve this problem tighten your connectors. However, corrosion related problems require you to clean the battery regularly.
The problem could still be a defective alternator or improper installation. A fuse could also be the cause. If you still have power (headlights still work) the problem is in the fuel or ignition system. Your vehicle has a very complex ignition system and should only be serviced by trained professionals.
The car battery light might come on for several reasons, but the most obvious reasons are: An old car battery. Car battery connections that are corroded. Car battery cables that are misconnected.
Charging problems can be caused by electrical faults in the alternator or voltage regulator, poor wiring connections at the battery or alternator, or a slipping or broken drive belt. Since most late-model import alternators are internally regulated, a failure of the regulator means the alternator must also be replaced.
Symptoms of a burnt out diode:
The engine will begin to run rough, lack power and eventually stall and not start again. The battery warning light will turn on, warning you that there is a problem with your alternator charging system. The headlights will become dim due to reduced battery voltage.
You have to stop shut it off and start again. 5 people think this is helpful.
A bad battery won`t damage the alternator, but a bad alternator can damage a battery. The car battery simply isn`t made to deliver electrical energy for extended periods, so both components need to be functioning optimally.
No, you can`t charge a car battery while idling. At best, it`ll charge the battery a few amps, but not nearly the hundreds of amps it took to start the engine. After a few days of starting and then idling the engine, you`ll steadily deplete the battery instead of charge it.
If your vehicle won`t start, it`s usually caused by a dying or dead battery, loose or corroded connection cables, a bad alternator or an issue with the starter.
If you`re unable to start your vehicle, check and see if the headlights and dash lights come on. If they shine bright and clear, that means that the battery and alternator are likely not the cause of the problem. If they were, there wouldn`t be enough power to run the lights.
Dead battery: A dead battery is the No. 1 cause of a no-start. If the battery is weak, but not totally dead, the starter may turn slowly.
Parasitic Drain
A small amount of parasitic drain is normal and expected, since things like your clock and audio system need some power to avoid being reset every time you turn off the car. However, excessive parasitic drain can be a problem, leaving your battery empty by morning.
Alternator Low Voltage Between 10-20% of rated output
This indicates lack of excitation, which could be: The Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) fuse (if fitted) has blown. The Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) has failed. A break in the excitation circuit between the AVR and the exciter stator.
One of the most common problems you`re likely to experience with an alternator is a failure in the bearings. There are needle bearings in the alternator that allow the rotor to freely spin inside the housing, and those bearings can break down over time as a result of exposure to heat and dirt.
Diodes are responsible for converting alternating current (AC—what the alternator produces), into direct current (DC— which is what the vehicles battery and other electrical components run on). If the diodes do not function properly, the alternator will not work.
Probably, the most common symptom associated with a bad regulator is flickering, dimming, or pulsing lights. To be more specific, you may notice that the vehicle`s: Headlights fluctuate between bright and dim, without you doing anything. High beam isn`t working as expected.
You can never have too much amperage when it comes to alternators; therefore, you never have to worry about choosing an alternator with too high of a rated output. Here`s why: Amperage is basically the amount of electrical current your alternator can supply.
Disconnecting your battery and draining the power to cause an ECU reset is one of the most common fixes for a check engine light that won`t go away on its own. Doing so is equivalent to a hard reboot on a desktop computer, which is a standard way to eliminate many common problems.
After replacing your alternator, your vehicle may not start for various reasons. Car owners need to check the battery after replacing an alternator. It is important to check the battery regularly. It will kill the alternator again if the battery isn`t fully charged.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I put new alternator, brought new battery crank car battery gauge do not go any further than half and start dropping while driving
ANSWER : You can verify alternator drive belt tension and measure charging system output at the battery posts. If the voltage output at the battery is with the required specification (roughly 13.8 to 14.4 volts but varies by model), check the condition of the battery. Batteries can be load tested to determine condition even if they are new. If despite normal charging system output, and a fully verified (100% charged) battery, you are still experiencing loss of electrical power, a circuit diagnostic will have to be performed to pinpoint the cause. If you desire that that diagnostic be performed by a certified mechanic, please use YourMechanic’s charging system/battery diagnostics service page and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
My car will not start Intermittently. I purchased a new battery 2 weeks ago and yesterday the car wouldn’t start. Got a jump and
ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
My car cranks but will not start. I try to do fix the car myself. I put new battery, new alternator, and new ignition coils.
ANSWER : Hi there. Check the spark plugs and see if they are worn or burned. If the plugs are good and they have a good spark, then the engine compression could be low causing a no start situation. If the spark plugs are not emitting a spark, then the crankshaft position sensor could have failed or disconnected. Check the crankshaft position sensor wiring harness and make sure that its plugged in. Check the sensor and make sure that its not broken or damaged. If you need further assistance with your engine not starting, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
Just put a new carburetor, battery, starter relay, alternator, car stalls out while driving and battery dies when restarted
ANSWER : The battery should be load tested. Simply charging the battery or measuring voltage is not adequate. Measure charging output, too. You want to confirm that the ignition system, including for instance the ignition coil and ignition switch, are not intermittently cutting out. Coils can fail as temperature rises (resistance increases with temperature) so if you run the car for a while and all of a sudden it quits, measure the resistance of the coil windings to see if that provides a clue. Apart from that, the ENTIRE primary side ignition circuit has to be checked, using voltage drop testing (and testing of the hall effect sensor in the distributor), to rule the primary side in or out. If you want the required diagnostic steps performed by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request a stalling diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
My truck won’t start. I put a new fuel pump, cam shaft sensor, cleaned my crank sensor, and put a new battery in it. It will crank but not start.
ANSWER : Check the exhaust system for any leaks before the oxygen sensors. This can contribute to having more oxygen in the exhaust stream causing the sensors to register a false reading. If there is no leaks in the exhaust, then check the engine for any vacuum leaks. Look at all of the vacuum lines, the intake gaskets, and the brake booster. A vacuum leak will cause the engine idle to accelerate fast and also cause the engine to stall when the computer brings the idle down. If you need further assistance with your engine stalling, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
2005 Chrysler 300C changed battery and alternator. Car started, ran, and then battery light came on. Shut car off and wouldn’t start.
ANSWER : Hi. There is a couple of things that could be wrong here. The battery or alternator that was just installed could be defective. Theses parts need to be tested for proper operation. There also could be a fuse, fusible link, or wiring for the battery or charging system that is blown or broken causing the battery light to come on.
The codes that you have will cause the car to shut down, run rough, or not start at all. The crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor should be replaced. I suggest having a certified technician from YourMechanic come diagnose the charging system and check engine codes to help you proceed with correct repairs.
Car stalls out while driving.. Power gone..battery drained.. dashboard goes crazy.. Told alt..or ignition stuff.won’t start…
ANSWER : The alternator is likely, but this would completely drain the battery and if done too many times can render the battery useless. The situation must be diagnosed properly by an experienced mechanic to find the solution. Electrical components like the ignition switch or an engine speed sensor can also cause the vehicle to stall. but do not usually drain the battery. I’d suggest having one of our mobile experts pay a visit and assess the concern with your battery.
We have a new battery, new alternator, new coil pk, new master fuse and the car still won’t hold power.
ANSWER : Hi there. The only thing that I could think possible is causing your problem is that something may not have been correctly installed while your son was completing this maintenance. However, if your engine was difficult to start before this service, it’s possible there are different components that are damaged that simply didn’t resolve the issue. The only way of knowing what is going on with your Trailblazer would be to have one of our mobile mechanics in your area come to your location and complete a car is hard to start inspection.
