I have a Mitsubishi Lancer LS 2002 it has a new clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing I bled the clutch 5 times I driver for
I have a brand new clutch pressure plate everything is Neo I have blood to clutch five times I dial for like 10 minutes in the cause pedal goes all the way down I got to pump it again if I can be able to use my car
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
It could be that you have a leak in the clutch master or slave cylinder. Either one can cause the clutch to lose pressure that way. Unfortunately, The 02 Lancers had a "concentric" slave cylinder that requires transmission removal for replacement. So it’s really good policy to change the slave cylinder any time you replace the clutch. In later years, the engineers came to their senses and changed it to a conventional slave cylinder that mounts on the bell housing and is easy to replace. If you have been bleeding the clutch system you’ll know which type of slave cylinder you have. Either way, you can have this taken care of at your convenience by contacting Your Mechanic. They can send a technician to your home or office to check out your Mitsubishi and let you know what it will take to get your clutch working properly.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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LS being the Luxury Sedan and OZ & Ralliart being the “Rally” editons with a few more options than the first 2. 14 people think this is helpful. 60.
A pressure bleeder attaches to the clutch master cylinder, and pressurizes the hydraulic system. It pushes hydraulic fluid into the clutch master cylinder. This process is done as a person opens and closes the clutch bleed valve at the slave cylinder.
LS stands for “luxury sport” and is what is featured in the names of most of the base models in the Chevy lineup.
The engine family commonly called the LS series debuted in 1997. General Motors called it the Gen-III Small-Block, with the iron-block versions in trucks and the all-aluminum LS1 introduced in the then-new C5 Corvette.
In the beginning, LS stood for “Luxury Sport,” but now it`s often the name of the base Chevy trim level, which also means it`s the most affordable. LT stands for “Luxury Touring,” and it`s usually the next step up from the base level.
The Mitsubishi Lancer 2002 is available in Unleaded Petrol. Engine sizes and transmissions vary from the Coupe 1.5L 4 SP Automatic to the Sedan 2.0L 5SP Manual.
Air as cause of malfunction
As far as the hydraulic clutch is concerned, the following symptoms may occur: Change of the pedal travel. Difficulties in disengaging the clutch. Imprecise pedal feel.
The easiest way to bleed the clutch is to use a vacuum pump to pull the fluid and air out of the system while keeping the clutch fluid reservoir topped off. Continue pumping fluid from the bleeder valve until you no longer see air bubbles in the fluid.
Typically there are three methods used by auto manufacturers to actuate the clutch diaphragm in manual transmission vehicles: push rod, cable, and hydraulic. Adjusting push rod and cable-type linkages is fairly simple, but hydraulic clutches require bleeding when installing a new hydraulic throwout bearing.
The LT was developed by GM to replace the LS in their cars and help the company meet ever-tightening emissions and fuel economy standards. These engines are newer, more advanced, and much more fuel efficient than their LS brethren.
They have a cracked cap that—by means of an irregular mating surface—allows the rod cap to align precisely with the big-end, helping equalize bearing wear, and they are far stronger than production rods from earlier engine architectures.
Of the thousands of engines I have repaired, I can attest that the LS engines are one of the best-engineered engines available. They are extremely easy to repair.
LS engines, like most engines, are pretty reliable as long as they`ve been properly maintained, and they`re even pretty decent when somewhat neglected!
The Difference Between LS and LT
As you progress through the trim levels, the LS is next. The LS will add on extra amenities – often nicer interior or exterior upgrades or more premium technology. The LT follows after the LS, offering even better features at a slightly higher MSRP.
The ls command is used to list files. “ls” on its own lists all files in the current directory except for hidden files.
Overall Reliability Ratings: Is The Mitsubishi Lancer Reliable? Overall the Mitsubishi Lancer reliability is 53.3 and that makes it not very reliable. The chart below illustrates exactly how this ranks compared to some other cars, but the average overall rating is 57 as some comparison.
Warranty Direct detailed that the Mitsubishi Lancer model which was assembled between 2005 and 2008 was the runaway winner of the study, scoring a rating of just six.
With simple maintenance and sensible driving, the Mitsubishi Lancer is a fairly reliable car that can last between 150,000 and 200,000 miles with routine maintenance.
Used 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer Overview
Pre-owned Mitsubishi Lancer models are available with a 2.0 L-liter gas engine, with output up to 120 hp, depending on engine type. The Used 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer comes with front wheel drive. Available transmissions include: 4-speed automatic, 5-speed manual.
Mitsubishi Lancer SFXI 1.5 2002 price in New Delhi is ₹ 7.2 Lacs (Ex-showroom).
With power being fed through a driver adaptive 4-speed automatic transmission, our test Lancer met 60 in 10.4 seconds, and passed through the quarter mile in 17.9 seconds at 77 MPH.
Engine rated at 295 PS (217 kW; 291 bhp) at 6,500 rpm and 366 N⋅m (270 lb⋅ft) of torque at 3,500 rpm.
The average lifespan of a clutch is anywhere between 20,000 to 150,000 miles. Luckily, your clutch will likely give you ample notice that something is going wrong. Don`t get left at the side of the road with a vehicle that won`t shift into gear.
Stiff clutch may be the most common issue that drivers face. Not only it makes your leg works extra hard, but the stiffness may also distract you while driving. This problem certainly indicates that something is wrong in the transmission system.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I have a Mitsubishi Lancer LS 2002 it has a new clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing I bled the clutch 5 times I driver for
ANSWER : It could be that you have a leak in the clutch master or slave cylinder. Either one can cause the clutch to lose pressure that way. Unfortunately, The 02 Lancers had a "concentric" slave cylinder that requires transmission removal for replacement. So it’s really good policy to change the slave cylinder any time you replace the clutch. In later years, the engineers came to their senses and changed it to a conventional slave cylinder that mounts on the bell housing and is easy to replace. If you have been bleeding the clutch system you’ll know which type of slave cylinder you have. Either way, you can have this taken care of at your convenience by contacting Your Mechanic. They can send a technician to your home or office to check out your Mitsubishi and let you know what it will take to get your clutch working properly.
Clutch lost all hydraulic pressure after difficulty engaging gears while using the clutch.
ANSWER : Hello. This situation is usually a failure of either the clutch master or slave cylinder – they simply wear out. If you have any clutch fluid on the drivers side front carpet, the failure is the clutch master cylinder. If the fluid loss is on the ground, under the rear of the engine, the slave cylinder is the failing component. It is often more economical in the long run to replace both with your advanced mileage as they wear at similar rates. I would recommend having the clutch master and slave cylinder replaced by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, to repair this problem.
Can a flywheel cause damage to a clutch plate?
ANSWER : This cannot be blamed on either party since the flywheel would show a spot that is low or high after it was machined. The flywheel may have what is called a "hot spot" from the last clutch slip which caused the flywheel to get hot, creating a hardened spot that would be hard to machine. At this point, replacing the flywheel and clutch with new parts will definitely solve the issue.
If you’d like a second opinion on this problem, consider enlisting a certified mechanic who can diagnose the shuddering you’re experiencing and perform the necessary checks on these components to find what exactly is at fault.
Replaced calipers and brake shoes. Bled the brakes and loose clutch. Get clutch back and loose brake pressure. Why?
ANSWER : Hello. The symptoms you are describing are very unusual. The clutch and brake hydraulic systems on your vehicle are separate, and should function completely independently of each other. The brake master cylinder uses a completely different set of lines than the clutch master cylinder does. I would try carefully bleeding both systems once more, just to be sure that there is no air in either system.
If both are bled properly, I would then move on to making sure that none of the components of either system are leaking. Leaks at the master or slave cylinders, or at any of the calipers or wheel cylinders will cause the systems to lose pressure. If the problem persists, I would then consider the possibility of a defective master cylinder.
My car has low oil pressure. I’ve already changed the oil pressure sensor 3 times.
ANSWER : If you have replaced the sensor three times and it did not fix the problem, then you may have problems with the oil pressure being low at idle due to wear in the engine bearings. The reason it would be fine sometimes and not others may be due to engine load and temperature changes. Have the oil pressure tested at the sensor port to see if it is low and needs engine repairs.
I recommend having a certified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location to perform an inspection to determine why the Oil Pressure Light is on.
It cranks doesn’t start new batteries, oil pressure switch new pmd, new injection pump. new alternator, new glow plugs.
ANSWER : Hello.
A crank but no start condition can be caused by many things. A few common causes are a faulty crank position sensor, or issues with the fuel system. The crank position sensor is used in the engine’s fuel calculations, and in some cases it’s failure will disable the engine.
It may also be possible that there is issues with the fuel system that are preventing the engine from running. If the fuel pump or injectors have an issue the engine may not run correctly, or at all. It may also be possible, for either case, that the issue may be wiring related.
I would start by trying to determine if the engine is getting fuel and then going from there. If you need assistance with these checks, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to you in order to diagnose your starting issue firsthand for an accurate repair.
Rough shifting. Manual trans.
ANSWER : If the synchros inside the transmission are worn badly, this can also cause grinding when trying to change gears as the synchros help to slow or speed up the internals for the next exchange for a smoother shift. Your concern sounds more like there may still be some air trapped in the system so it should be bled some more just to make sure especially when you mentioned the vehicle will move with the clutch pedal to the floor. This means the clutch is still not engaged and there is not enough pressure on the pressure plate. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out for a closer inspection of the system and attempt to bleed the system more before offering a more personal diagnosis if your transmission concerns.
No pressure in the clutch. 2003 Ford Escort
ANSWER : Hi there. There seems be a lot of air in the clutch hydraulic system. Check the reservoir on the clutch master cylinder and see if there is any fluid. If there is fluid and it is full and the slave cylinder will not bleed out the fluid, then either the clutch slave cylinder needs replaced or the master cylinder needs replaced. To see if the clutch master cylinder needs replaced, remove the cap to the reservoir and step on the clutch pedal and see if the fluid goes down any. If there is a lot of bubbles and the fluid swirls around, then the seals in the clutch master cylinder are hard. If you need further assistance with your clutch pedal not being firm, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
