Replaced calipers and brake shoes. Bled the brakes and loose clutch. Get clutch back and loose brake pressure. Why?
Replaced calipers and front brake shoes. Bled brakes and lost clutch. Bled clutch and lost brake. Replaced the master cylinder to no avail. Still if I get pressure back in one I lose pressure in the other.
My car has a manual transmission.
My car has a manual transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello. The symptoms you are describing are very unusual. The clutch and brake hydraulic systems on your vehicle are separate, and should function completely independently of each other. The brake master cylinder uses a completely different set of lines than the clutch master cylinder does. I would try carefully bleeding both systems once more, just to be sure that there is no air in either system.
If both are bled properly, I would then move on to making sure that none of the components of either system are leaking. Leaks at the master or slave cylinders, or at any of the calipers or wheel cylinders will cause the systems to lose pressure. If the problem persists, I would then consider the possibility of a defective master cylinder.
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If the piston is stuck within the caliper, or the pad is stuck, the car can feel down on power (as if the parking brake is on). You may also notice the car pulling to one side with the steering wheel pointed straight, when cruising and not applying the brake. As you drive, the seized brake may also get hot – very hot.
The process of removing air from the hydraulic brake system is called bleeding. Air is compressible, and any air in the system will be compressed during brake application, causing a spongy pedal. When bleeding brakes, using the proper sequence is recommended.
There are two main types of calipers, a single piston and a dual piston. Most front calipers are dual piston but many cars use single piston calipers on the rear, where less braking force is needed.
Seized caliper pistons can be removed with the hydraulic pressure off the brake system itself. After removing the caliper from the disc, pump the brake pedal to move the piston past the corroded section. You will then be able to disassemble and rebuild it.
Many brake experts recommend breaking in new brake pads with a 30-30-30 procedure: 30 gradual stops from 30 mph with 30 seconds in between each stop for the brakes to cool. This procedure will prevent the pads from getting too hot until the resins have fully cured.
At a basic level, cars like your Jeep use what are called “friction” brakes. These brakes use the contact between two types of material to bring the car to a halt. A friction brake may be either a disc brake or a drum brake.
There are five main methods of bleeding: Pump & Hold (2 variations), Vacuum, Pressure, Bench, and Reverse. Pump & Hold generally requires two people, the other methods can be done by a single person. Pump and Hold Method, two people: One person pumps the brake pedal to compress the air, then holds pressure on it.
A technician can spot the early warning signs of a failing caliper – corrosion, dirt buildup, leak, reluctant guide pins, and more – before they become a major issue. If a caliper already has problems, the technician might notice uneven brake pad wear resulting from a caliper that is either stuck open or stuck closed.
Yes, many car experts recommend that you bleed all four brakes once you open one of the brake lines to replace a caliper or do other work. However, this is not a hard-and-fast rule, particularly if the brake line you are having work done to is independent of the other lines.
WD-40 Specialist Automotive Brake and Parts Cleaner is safe to use on clutch and brake assemblies, brake discs, callipers, brake drums, brake pads and brake linings.
Caliper Slides – the slides located in the caliper can freeze due to lack of lubrication, corrosion or debris build-up. When the caliper cannot slide properly in or out, this causes the brake caliper assembly to stick.
The most common causes of your brakes not releasing is a seized caliper or brake pad. This typically occurs due to rusting or ageing. Typically, you will notice your vehicle pulling to one side when you press down on your brakes.
Early on, it might sound like something is rubbing when you let off the brake pedal. Ignore that and you will eventually hear a metallic grinding, scraping, or rubbing sound that indicates metal-on-metal contact in your brake system. A less-common occurrence is the sound of a “clunk” when you hit the brake pedal.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Replaced calipers and brake shoes. Bled the brakes and loose clutch. Get clutch back and loose brake pressure. Why?
ANSWER : Hello. The symptoms you are describing are very unusual. The clutch and brake hydraulic systems on your vehicle are separate, and should function completely independently of each other. The brake master cylinder uses a completely different set of lines than the clutch master cylinder does. I would try carefully bleeding both systems once more, just to be sure that there is no air in either system.
If both are bled properly, I would then move on to making sure that none of the components of either system are leaking. Leaks at the master or slave cylinders, or at any of the calipers or wheel cylinders will cause the systems to lose pressure. If the problem persists, I would then consider the possibility of a defective master cylinder.
had to replace rear brake caliper, is parking brake cable just worn out? Cant get it back on caliper!
ANSWER : You should install the brake cable before installing the brake caliper. You may have to turn in the caliper again to get it back over the rotor when installing it. If you want to have this done for you, a technician from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to correctly install the parking cable (and caliper) for you – just let them know that you already have the parts.
Low brake pedal and anti-lock brakes are not kicking in.
ANSWER : The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
Changed brake master cylinder, bled 10 times, and the pedal is soft The rear brakes are not locked but close. Truck now running rough.
ANSWER : You will have to bleed the brakes from the farthest location all the way to the master cylinder. There is still air in the lines causing the issue. Check the vibrations on the vehicle to see if the engine mounts are damaged or if the brakes are not releasing causing the engine to run harder than normal to overcome the braking force. If you need further assistance with your vehicle’s brake system, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
Horrible grinding sound after recently replaced front and back brakes and rotors.
ANSWER : Hi there. Were there shims installed on the old pads? New shims on the new pads? Missing shims can create noise while braking which is why the antiseize worked for a short time. What brand/level of brake pads did your husband install? Usually, the lowest priced pads are the noisiest. The antisieze that he installed is not recommended to be put on brake components as the high temperatures of these parts can cause the lubricant to run and contaminate the pads and rotors. There are specifically designed brake pad shim lubricants designed to withstand these high temperatures; these are the only ones that should be used if needed. I strongly suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts and a possible safety concern. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a brakes are making a noise inspection.
EPC light on 2004 Jetta. Code said brake switch faulty, but brakes lights worked. Replaced brake switch, now no brake lights.
ANSWER : Hi there. The first thing that pops in my mind beyond of what you have listed is perhaps the electrical harness attached to the brake switch. Perhaps the harness itself is damaged or you have an exposed wire, loose ground wire somewhere. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a brake lights not working inspection to help you diagnose this issue.
Low brake pedal pressure and sticking front brakes
ANSWER : Hello there. If I’m not mistaken, the 99 Nissan has front brake caliper, pad and rotor system. If this is true with your vehicle the best option is to purchase a new caliper housing instead of trying to rebuild it; as issues like you’ve described will continue. This video will show you how to correctly replace the caliper and bleed your brakes. If the rear wheel cylinder spring popped out, replace the entire system as well.
When I put my foot on the brake my back left brake light goes off, when I take it off the brake the brake light comes on
ANSWER : I would suggest trying to disconnect and reconnect the wiring to the rear lights. I have seen these older Toyota vehicles rear lighting short out on the lights themselves due to the way the light circuit was made on the lamp housing. Look at the housing circuit on the light to see if one is touching another, and that could tell you why it is malfunctioning. There could also be a problem with the brake light switch. If you are not comfortable dealing with wires, I recommend getting in touch with a certified mechanic who can look at your brake light issue for you to see what’s going on.
