Brake pads fixed, parking brake, car won’t start.
I had my brake pads replaced a few hours ago. The man pumped my brakes and made sure it was running. About 20 mins ago I tried to leave and the light ! P brake (which I assume is the parking brake) came on and the car won't start. I checked all fuses, engaged and disengaged the parking brake but it still won't start. What can this be and how do I fix it?
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
If the parking brake warning light is on and yet the parking brake is disengaged, that typically means that the switch is stuck. If the warning light yo are seeing though relates to the brakes generally, that could mean the fluid level in the master cylinder is low (low fluid level warning light). The brake system is unrelated to and separate from the "engine". Even if you took all the brakes off the car, the engine would still start. Consequently, the no start problem you are having arises as pure coincidence unless somehow the mechanic worked on parts of the car other than the brake system, such as the engine.
A possibility is you have a weak battery. Consider that a strong possibility if your battery is 4 years old or older. Prior to performing diagnostics be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Then, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. To temporarily override the immobilizer system, see these instructions. With a fully charged battery and the immobilizer system off, if the starter motor does not operate at that point, either there is no power to the starter motor, hence the starter circuit would have to be diagnosed, or the starter itself is bad and it would be replaced. On the other hand, if you do have a fully charged battery that is powering a starter motor that is turning the engine over rapidly, at sufficient RPM, but the engine does not catch and run, that means that there is an ignition, fuel, air induction, or mechanical fault in the engine that will have to be repaired. Be sure there is adequate fuel in the fuel tank and that the fuel is not old. Check for adequate fuel pressure (does the in-tank fuel pump whirr momentarily at the instant you turn the key to the "on" position?; if not, you have a dead fuel pump), injector operation, and a spark at the spark plugs. If the simple checks I have outlined above do not result in the car starting the recommended service to request is a no start diagnostic during which the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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The brake system is unrelated to and separate from the “engine”. Even if you took all the brakes off the car, the engine would still start. Consequently, the no start problem you are having arises as pure coincidence unless somehow the mechanic worked on parts of the car other than the brake system, such as the engine.
A brake pedal that is stiff and won`t depress can be caused by several different things, including air in the hydraulic system, a leak in the hydraulic system, or simply dirt and grime on the pedal. Your car won`t start due to a faulty battery, fuel pump, starter motor, or ignition switch.
The most common cause of brake failure is loss of brake fluid. The fluid transfers the force you exert by pushing down on the brake pedal to the brake disks that slow and stop your car`s wheels. You can usually detect a leak before getting on the road because you`ll see it underneath your vehicle.
Part of your vehicle`s brake system, the emergency brake operates independently of the main brake system to keep your vehicle from rolling away. Also known as a parking brake, hand brake and e-brake, the emergency brake was originally designed to be used if the vehicle`s main braking system would fail.
If your vehicle won`t start, it`s usually caused by a dying or dead battery, loose or corroded connection cables, a bad alternator or an issue with the starter. It can be hard to determine if you`re dealing with a battery or an alternator problem.
If brake pads are cracked or worn down, it makes this process a bit more difficult, affecting your ability to stop, and may even damage your vehicle`s rotors. A brake inspection every 3,000 to 5,000 miles can help keep you informed about the condition of your car`s brakes.
Common Reasons Brake Lock Up
Overheated braking system. Using the wrong brake fluid. Damaged or broken parts (calipers, brake pads, pistons, rotors, or others) Defective ABS components.
The battery in the key fob needs to be replaced This is one of the most common reasons why a key fob might not be working. The good news is replacing the battery is very easy using the instructions in your owner`s manual.
Brakes Feel Weak or Spongy
If you`ve noticed that your car`s brake pedal feels weak or spongy, the most common cause is air in the brake fluid. Try bleeding the brakes and topping up the brake fluid to the fill line in the reservoir. If the problem persists, take the car to a garage for a full brake system inspection.
Brake pad wear is another common cause of brake failure. The pads will wear out and the brakes will no longer work. In some cases, it can even lead to an accident. If you are driving a car and you feel that the pedal is not as firm as it used to be, it could be time for new brake pads.
When brakes are not as responsive as what they should be, or if the brake pedal “sinks” down to the floor, this is a possible indication of a braking system leak. It could be a brake fluid leak, or a brake hose air leak.
Your primary brakes work through a high-tech hydraulic system and are meant to slow your car to a stop. The emergency brake, on the other hand, is designed to hold your car in place. However, if your primary brakes fail, you can use the emergency brake to slow down and stop your car.
When brakes are not as responsive as what they should be, or if the brake pedal “sinks” down to the floor, this is a possible indication of a braking system leak. It could be a brake fluid leak, or a brake hose air leak.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Brake pads fixed, parking brake, car won’t start.
ANSWER : If the parking brake warning light is on and yet the parking brake is disengaged, that typically means that the switch is stuck. If the warning light yo are seeing though relates to the brakes generally, that could mean the fluid level in the master cylinder is low (low fluid level warning light). The brake system is unrelated to and separate from the "engine". Even if you took all the brakes off the car, the engine would still start. Consequently, the no start problem you are having arises as pure coincidence unless somehow the mechanic worked on parts of the car other than the brake system, such as the engine.
A possibility is you have a weak battery. Consider that a strong possibility if your battery is 4 years old or older. Prior to performing diagnostics be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Then, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. To temporarily override the immobilizer system, see these instructions. With a fully charged battery and the immobilizer system off, if the starter motor does not operate at that point, either there is no power to the starter motor, hence the starter circuit would have to be diagnosed, or the starter itself is bad and it would be replaced. On the other hand, if you do have a fully charged battery that is powering a starter motor that is turning the engine over rapidly, at sufficient RPM, but the engine does not catch and run, that means that there is an ignition, fuel, air induction, or mechanical fault in the engine that will have to be repaired. Be sure there is adequate fuel in the fuel tank and that the fuel is not old. Check for adequate fuel pressure (does the in-tank fuel pump whirr momentarily at the instant you turn the key to the "on" position?; if not, you have a dead fuel pump), injector operation, and a spark at the spark plugs. If the simple checks I have outlined above do not result in the car starting the recommended service to request is a no start diagnostic during which the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
My car will not start Intermittently. I purchased a new battery 2 weeks ago and yesterday the car wouldn’t start. Got a jump and
ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
I pulled into a parking spot and put my car into park, when I lifted my foot from the brake the car continues forward.
ANSWER : The vehicle transmission did not get back to the park position due to the shift cable came off of the transmission shift linkage. You will need to have a mechanic like one from YourMechanic come to you and check the shift cable connection at the transmission to see if the shift cable bushing broke and let the cable end disengage from the shift linkage. The shift cable may need replaced if the cable end bushing is not available. I recommend a mechanic check the shift cable and replace cable or repair cable end as parts allow.
The car crank but won’t start
ANSWER : Hi there. This does sound like an issue with the wiring. If the check engine light is coming on every now and then this means that when it does not come on there is no power to the computer. This can be the wiring harness issue or an ignition switch problem. I would have to test for voltage to the computer when the problem is occurring to be able to find where the issue lies. If you need assistance, a certified YourMechanic technician can be dispatched to your location to inspect your vehicle’s non-start issue and suggest any necessary repairs.
Car Won’t Start
ANSWER : Hello. From what you describe it would appear that your vehicle is having some sort of malfunction with the security system. It may be possible that the security system is enabled and preventing the vehicle from starting. This may or may not be related to the the recent battery replacement for the remote, or it could also be related to the EPS light. The EPS light comes on when the computer detects an issue with the vehicle’s electronic power steering system. There are cases where a steering malfunction will prevent the vehicle from starting, if the issue detected is serious enough to significantly affect the vehicle’s handling. It is unlikely that the brake fluid or engine oil are related to the issue, but it would not be a bad idea to make sure that they are topped off. I would recommend retrieving the trouble codes that are setting off the EPS light, as they will likely reveal some information on what the issue may be. Also keep in mind that a no start condition can be caused by other things, such as issues with the ignition system, or even the starter itself. As these sorts of electrical issues can sometimes be difficult to diagnose, I would recommend having a professional technician, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location to [diagnose the cause of your warning light, and if it may be related to the no start condition.
Car won’t start. The check engine light, battery light, and oil change light are coming on. I tried jumping the car and nothing happened. Why won’t my car start?
ANSWER : Hi and thanks for contacting Your Mechanic. If sometimes your vehicle will start with the new alternator and sometimes it won’t, then there is a loose connection in your charging system. Check all of the wires to the alternator and to the battery. Make sure that the battery cables are clean and tight. Make sure that the wires to the starter are clean and tight. A loose ground to the ignition system will cause the vehicle to not crank over. Check all of the ground wires from the battery to the starter. Make sure that they are clean and tight. If you need further assistance troubleshooting your no start situation, then seek out a technician, such as one from Your Mechanic, that can assist you.
Map sensor car won’t start up good ?
ANSWER : Your MAP sensor is an important input for your computer. It helps determine the load on the engine to calculate the correct amount of fuel to inject. It sometimes takes a few seconds for the vehicle to realize that the sensor is not producing a good signal.
At that point, it will use other methods to determine the fuel rate, such as pre-programmed fuel maps, throttle position, etc. I would suggest replacing the MAP sensor and retesting. If you would like to have it checked first, a certified technician from YourMechanic will be able to scan your vehicle and test components to determine the root cause of your starting issue before making a repair.
Car will not start intermittently while in PARK but always starts on NEUTRAL.
ANSWER : Hi there, thank you for writing in and providing a detailed description. I’d be happy to give my insight on what to do next.
I would make the same conclusion about the neutral safety switch. I think Pep Boys made the right call. I admit, I don’t like to call a part bad without being able to duplicate the problem, but anytime a customer states their car starts in neutral but not park, we replace the neutral safety switch. I can’t recall a time that this move was wrong.
The intermittent nature of your problem does’t change this diagnosis either. The same electrical connection can work one moment and not the next. Electricity works at the atomic level that we as humans can’t directly observe, which is why we have tools to do electrical testing. Your tow truck driver got it correct.
Hope this helps and best of luck! If you’d like help replacing your neutral safety switch, consider having one of our expert automotive technicians come to your home or office to do it for you.
