Replaced front rotors an brakes. Pedal is hard to press. Not even getting fluid to the rear brakes.

No brake fluid getting to rear brakes. Pedal hard to press. Replaced rotors an front brakes an no change. Car slows itself down.

My car has 175000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. There could be several problems here; seized brake components on the rear, failed proportioning valve, failed master cylinder, failed brake booster. How do you know there is no fluid getting to the rear brakes? Are the front brakes working at all? This could be a serious safety concern and truly needs a qualified technician to perform an inspection. Having a qualified technician perform the inspection will avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a brake pedal is hard to press inspection.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

If you have a stiff brake pedal and the vehicle has a vacuum pump or hydraulic brake booster, some common issues could be a missing serpentine belt, a failing electric pump, or low power steering fluid.
One common reason is a buildup of air in the brake lines, which usually means your vehicle`s brake fluid needs to be flushed. A lack of brake fluid due to a leak (often caused by rust) can also result in an unresponsive brake pedal.
The most likely cause of a sinking pedal with no external leakage is a faulty brake master cylinder that`s leaking internally. Were the brakes hot, we might consider boiling fluid due to moisture contamination or friction material gassing.
The cup seals or the cylinder bore may be worn. Any time that the brake pedal of a vehicle is fading towards the floor, internal leaking or cup seals being bypassed must be considered. A fading pedal that has no external leak is one of the most common master cylinder symptoms caused by the cup seals.
A malfunctioning Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) can also cause a hard brake pedal. The ABS system is responsible for preventing the wheels from locking up during emergency braking. If the ABS system malfunctions, it may cause a loss of hydraulic pressure, resulting in a hard brake pedal.
A bad power brake booster is a common cause of a hard brake pedal. As such, it should be your first consideration when diagnosing a hard brake pedal. Here`s how to manually check if your brake booster is problematic: Press and release the brake pedal consecutively while the engine is off.
When your ABS system malfunctions are can also cause a spongy brake pedal. Your ABS system is designed to allow the driver to maintain more control of the car in a high-speed stop.
Pedal and hold

Hold. Bleed. Repeat. Loud callouts of “pump it up” or “pressure” and “hold it down” can make the garage or driveway sound like a Sunday morning at the Waffle House, but the two-person procedure is a tried and true way to get the brakes bled quickly.

Usually, your brake pedal will sink if the ABS or master cylinder cannot maintain the proper hydraulic pressure. This inability to maintain hydraulic pressure will not only make your brake pedal sink to the floor, but it will also make it much more difficult to stop your automobile.
The common symptom around this fault is having the ESP light permanently illuminated on your dashboard speedo (instrument cluster) and pressing the “ESP OFF” / “DCS” traction control button will have no effect – in some cases, the button will also be illuminated but again, pressing this button will have no effect.
The ABS system works in tandem with the rest of the braking system to stop your vehicle quickly under hard braking. A faulty ABS wheel speed sensor can lead to longer braking distances under those situations.
With the car turned off, pump the brake pedal four or five times until you get a hard brake pedal. Continue to hold the brake pedal down with moderate pressure and start the vehicle. The brake pedal should drop. If this brake pedal remains hard, there is a problem with the brake booster, such as a ripped diaphragm.
A normal-functioning brake pedal feels firm when you attempt to slow down your vehicle. The harder you press down on it, the tighter it feels without applying extra pedal effort.
Hard braking is defined as reducing your speed by 8-10 MPH in 1 second. Dangers of Hard Braking: Hard braking is dangerous because when doing so, you are unable to react to surprises that present themselves.
The reservoir should have a label that says, “full line.” If the brake liquid falls below that line, it`s a sign your need to change your brake fluid or top it off. Low brake fluid can also indicate your brake pads are wearing down and need maintenance.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Replaced front rotors an brakes. Pedal is hard to press. Not even getting fluid to the rear brakes.
ANSWER : Hi there. There could be several problems here; seized brake components on the rear, failed proportioning valve, failed master cylinder, failed brake booster. How do you know there is no fluid getting to the rear brakes? Are the front brakes working at all? This could be a serious safety concern and truly needs a qualified technician to perform an inspection. Having a qualified technician perform the inspection will avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a brake pedal is hard to press inspection.

My car brake pedal vibrates while braking….so do i need to get front rotors replaced or rear rotors replaced? What are charges?
ANSWER : A pulsating brake pedal can be caused by front, rear, or all 4 rotors being warped or out of round. Typically when it’s the front rotors, you will feel the vibration in the brake pedal and the steering wheel. When the rear rotors are warped, you may feel it in the brake pedal and more in the seat, feeling it in your back side. Whether front, rear, or all 4, if the rotors are replaced, it’s a good idea to replace the pads as well.
The best approach would be to have a certified technician inspect the brakes to determine where the pulsation is coming from. An accurate estimate for repairs can be given at that time.

Supportive bar attached to brake pedal interrupts proper braking process
ANSWER : It’s possible to have someone alter the brake pedal or adapt a brake pedal from a different vehicle. You may call around to some customization shops to see if anyone is interested in taking on the project. But first, I would try reaching out to the selling dealer with your concern – especially since it is a new model. Good luck.

Low brake pedal and anti-lock brakes are not kicking in.
ANSWER : The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

No brake fluid is getting to the rear brakes
ANSWER : As far as the brake issue, yes, there needs to be a check to see if there is brake fluid entering into the proportional valve. If there is fluid supply to the valve but not out then the valve will need to be replaced. Any electrical faults in the rear ABS system are generally indicated with a light illuminated and if so, then the flash codes can be read out. But with no light illuminated then there most likely no electrical failures in the system. If the source from where the brake fluid supply cannot be located, then you may want to enlist the help of a mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, to help with the diagnosis of your brake system.

Hard brake pedal and rear brakes locking up.
ANSWER : Hi. I will help you with this issue you are having with your 2001 Durango. Unless you bled the master cylinder, it is possible there is still air in the system. If you car is equipped with ABS, air could have also gotten trapped in the ABS modulator. If ABS equipped, a bi-directional scan tool would be essential to manually activate the ABS system to clear air from that segment of the lines while you are bleeding the system. It is also possible that in all of this work somehow the proportioning valve has been affected causing the desired pressure differential, front versus back, to get out of spec. Using a 2,500 PSI gauge, you can check the pressures at each wheel and that will definitely give you a clue as to which brake circuit is the issue (or both), whether the proportioning valve is working properly and whether the line pressures at each wheel are within spec. Should you need a second opinion, by all means feel free to contact YourMechanic for assistance and we will diagnose and repair the issue for you.

Rear brake job
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. These situations are understandably questionable. The service providers at a lot of common oil changing and tire repair centers will quote you for a variety of things that can be updated. This does not always mean you are in dire need for more repairs. If braking seems to be harder, spongy, or takes longer, then you have reason to be concerned. Otherwise, you should check the amount of brake pad material left on the calipers. This can be visually inspected without too much trouble. Remove the wheel and physically measure the amount left, compare them to your vehicle specifications. It is a little early to worry about brake fluid or the rotors. However if the brake fluid is low, the rotors are warped from a hard stop, or there are obvious issues you should look into the system further. Only further inspection will confirm or deny the recommendations. For a second inspection, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

Brake pedal slowly becomes firm to press after short period of driving
ANSWER : Hello and thank you for your question.
The problem lies within the proportioning valve in the brake system. The valve could be plugged up with debris in the system making the valve stick. If the proportioning valve is okay and working correctly, then the brake controller plungers has some debris in the system. I suggest getting two large bottles of brake fluid Dot 3 and flushing out the entire system with all new brake fluid. This will help remove any debris in the system and help keep the system clean. If the system is still being pressurized after flushing out the entire brake system, then you may have to replace the proportioning valve or brake controller to keep the system from building up. If you need assistance with diagnosing your brake system, then seek out a professional, preferably a professional from Your Mechanic to help you with your brake system.