My clutch pedal is stuck to the floor. A while back I started hearing noise in my clutch when I pressed it. The car drive fine, th

A few months back, I started hearing a humming noise in my clutch pedal as well as feel it vibrate. The gears changed smoothly but the noise and vibration was still there. Sometimes the noise would not be so loud and other times it would. Now, the clutch pedal is stuck to the floor but I can still change gears even though it's parked. I can still crank it up with the pedal to the floor. What could be the problem?

My car has 155000 miles.
My car has a manual transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Your vehicle uses a hydraulically operated clutch system. The first thing to do is check the fluid level in the master cylinder and check for leaks although leaks at the slave cylinder might not be apparent. Internal seal failures can cause the same problem that one might experience (i.e., no clutch operation) with visible leaks and a low fluid level. The noise may be due to a failed clutch release bearing. Due to the noise and the misoperation, if the slave cylinder turns out to be faulty, you will probably need a new clutch as well as hydraulic components. The cause of the fault that you are reporting can be pinpointed if you request a hydraulic clutch system diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this diagnosed and let you know exactly what must be done. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

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Why Is it Sticking? Your clutch pedal connects to its operating system via a cable. If the cable becomes stretched, then it loses some of the tension it needs to work. And if the cable breaks, then the clutch loses its connection and may stay down and fail to rise at all.
Whistling or whining from the clutch can be caused e.g. by the release bearing running off-center, an off-center input shaft, or a defective pilot bearing. On the other hand, rattling noises may be due to load alterations if clutch disks are furnished with preliminary dampers.
Hard, and sometimes impossible shifting into first and reverse is caused by the clutch disc not moving away from the spinning flywheel. This is commonly referred to as the “clutch is not releasing”. The number one cause is the hydraulic system that operates the clutch is leaking and has low fluid.
Some common reasons a clutch may stick are: Broken or stretched clutch cable – The cable needs the right amount of tension to push and pull effectively. Leaky or defective slave and/or master clutch cylinders – Leaks keep the cylinders from building the necessary amount of pressure.
While a slightly damaged release bearing usually causes a whining noise, a severely damaged release bearing often produces loud, grinding noises when it is placed under pressure.
That`s the clutch release bearing causing the noise (happens when the clutch is pressed and goes away on releasing). The noise is not serious but it can be annoying in city traffic.
Frequent causes why the clutch doesn`t disengage correctly include faults in the release system (clutch release bearing, slave cylinder, clutch lever), a jammed pilot bearing, or non-compliance with important installation requirements.
A soft clutch can be a clear sign that a replacement is in order. As your vehicle`s clutch wears down, it may begin to feel soft and spongy when you press down on it. This inconsistent feeling is a sign that you should bring your vehicle into a shop to get it looked at.
The first thing to inspect is your entire clutch cable. They may be worn out over time, or simply need to be lubricated with special oil or powder. After the cable is lubricated, you also need to re-set the cable and adjust it to your convenience.
If your clutch is jammed, the clutch disk may have gotten stuck to the flywheel. To free the clutch, you can place the transmission in neutral and push the vehicle to start. When attempting to fix the problem on your own does not remedy the issue, you may need to bring your car to a transmission shop near Rockville.
Pressing the clutch and raising the RPM to 4000 to 5000 can be destructive for the entire car clutch system. A few wheel spins might make you replace your clutch place or even the entire clutch system.
If your classic car has been laid up for a long time, there is a chance that the clutch may have `stuck`. The friction disc is held tightly between the flywheel and the pressure plate when the pedal`s released. When the car stands unused for a long time, the disc may start to adhere to the flywheel and pressure plate.
Use a low-pressure-type grease gun equipped with the recommended grease, and lubricate the bearing until excess grease purges from the rear of the release bearing (toward the transmission). Do not over-lubricate the clutch release bearing.
The average lifespan of a clutch is anywhere between 20,000 to 150,000 miles. Luckily, your clutch will likely give you ample notice that something is going wrong. Don`t get left at the side of the road with a vehicle that won`t shift into gear.
Chatter is shaking or shuddering that is felt when the clutch is engaged. Chattering is evident while the clutch is being engaged and stops when the clutch is fully engaged. Clutch chatter is usually caused by contamination of the clutch disc friction surfaces.
However, if the clutch is released slowly the clutch disc will “slip” against the flywheel; this friction permits the engine a smoother transition to its new rotation speed. Such routine slippage causes wear on the clutch analogous to the wear-and-tear on a brake pad when stopping.
Pull up the handbrake, make sure the gearbox is in neutral and start the engine. Do not touch the clutch pedal at this stage. If any bearing noise is heard, the gearbox bearings are at fault.
“Riding” the clutch is the most common reason for premature clutch failure. Even the slightest pressure on the pedal will partially disengage the clutch, causing the release bearing, pressure plate and flywheel to overheat.
Fully press the clutch when stopping.

If you`re driving faster than approximately 10mph, brake to slow down and then press the clutch about 2 car lengths before stopping to prevent stalling. Always remember that any time you need to drive slower than about 5mph then you need to press the clutch or the car will stall.

Your clutch uses brake fluid to transmit hydraulic pressure to activate your clutch. Brake fluid adsorbs water from the air meaning that over time this water can corrode internal metal parts such as the inside of the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder.
Press the clutch as far down as you can and take your foot off. It should come back up to its starting position quickly. However, if it gets stuck or comes up slowly, then it`s starting to wear out. You should also feel even resistance in the pedal as you press it down.
Shift Lugging

Do you take your time shifting from first gear to second gear and so on? If you do, you`re wearing down your clutch prematurely. Slow gear shifts keep the clutch engaged much longer than it should be and damages it. Press down on the clutch, shift the gear, and release it quickly.

There are two basic ways a clutch fails – it either fails to disengage, or fails to engage fully.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My clutch pedal is stuck to the floor. A while back I started hearing noise in my clutch when I pressed it. The car drive fine, th
ANSWER : Your vehicle uses a hydraulically operated clutch system. The first thing to do is check the fluid level in the master cylinder and check for leaks although leaks at the slave cylinder might not be apparent. Internal seal failures can cause the same problem that one might experience (i.e., no clutch operation) with visible leaks and a low fluid level. The noise may be due to a failed clutch release bearing. Due to the noise and the misoperation, if the slave cylinder turns out to be faulty, you will probably need a new clutch as well as hydraulic components. The cause of the fault that you are reporting can be pinpointed if you request a hydraulic clutch system diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this diagnosed and let you know exactly what must be done. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

My car will not start Intermittently. I purchased a new battery 2 weeks ago and yesterday the car wouldn’t start. Got a jump and
ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Gears get stuck and hearing some noise in the exhaust. Some running noise that doesnt sound normal when parking. 1996 Mazda Miata
ANSWER : Hi there – either your clutch hydraulics (master/slave cylinder) are weak, or something wasn’t done right with your clutch repair. It shouldn’t fail so quickly. Either the clutch is dragging because the clutch hydraulics are weak, or the pilot bearing wasn’t replaced when the clutch was repaired, and that bearing is now seizing. This has the same effect as a dragging clutch – hard to get in gear when you’re stopped. I recommend a clutch inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

When I start the car up I hear a hummimg sound. Even when I press the gas pedal I can hear it. What could this humming sound be?
ANSWER : Hi there:

In many instances, a humming noise will be caused by a loose serpentine or drive belt, the power steering pump (which the other mechanic determined wasn’t so) or even a vacuum leak perhaps within the EVAP or EGR emissions system. However, since all of these would be guesses, it’s best to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is making a noise inspection first, so they can eliminate the guess work and determine where the noise is coming for; and the right repairs can be made.

Whenever I drive 1.5 miles, the s3 light starts blinking and then when I stop my car and come back to it, the car won’t start.
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. It is difficult to determine the issue without some more information. To start, when the check engine light illuminates, you want to scan the vehicle for diagnostic codes. These are what set the check engine light off, and are meant to tell the driver what the computer has detected is wrong. Codes can be pulled at most automotive parts stores, and by most technicians. Once you have that information you can focus in on one component or system. If the engine is truly overheating, then you want to start by checking your coolant and fluid levels. For more help with diagnosing and resolving the issue, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

My car shuts off while driving and then turns back on multiple times or shuts off after driving and car turns off.
ANSWER : Hi there. Check the alternator and make sure that the wiring it connected tight. Check the battery cables and make sure that they are tight and clean. Look for any loose ground wires to the chassis on the vehicle. If everything checks out to be working correctly, then the PCM may need to be replaced as it may have a battery disconnect condition. If you need further assistance with multiple functions shutting off, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

My car stutter starts, but only after driving it for a few minutes.
ANSWER : Hey there. This may also be caused by what is called the fuel pressure regulator. This is a unit that helps to maintain the fuel pressure at the proper level. When this is not working properly, the fuel pump may be pumping properly, but the fuel may not arrive at the fuel injectors at the proper psi. When this happens, this can cause a lean fuel condition which may cause the car to hesitate, misfire, or stall. If you would like to have an expert pinpoint the issue, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to inspect the hard start problem and confirm which repairs are needed.

It’s like I don’t have a clutch, more or less there’s too much pedal.
ANSWER : Hello – first task is to check the fluid level in your clutch fluid reservoir. This reservoir may be shared with the brake master cylinder – they both use brake fluid. If the fluid level is correct, it sounds like either your clutch master and/or slave cylinders are weak, and not providing adequate clutch actuation, or the pilot bearing has seized. A seized pilot bearing will act the same as a dragging clutch pressure plate, causing difficulty and grinding when selecting a gear. I would recommend a clutch system inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.