Swishing noise when starting and battery keeps dying
When I start my car it makes a swishing noise for about the first minute or so, then the noise stops. Recently my battery has also been dead a few times for seemingly no reason. Could the sound and dead battery be connected? Also, took the car to auto zone for a load test and was told my battery and alternator appear to be in fine working order, so I'm not sure why my battery keeps dying.
My car has 102000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. It is possible that a charging wire running from the alternator to the battery that is damaged and needs to be replaced. If the alternator was tested and was good, then it’s possible that you have a stuck electrical relay that is causing what’s known as a parasitic battery drain. This would not explain the noise however, so it might be a good idea to have a professional mechanic complete a car is making a noise inspection to determine what is causing this noise and if it’s related to the battery issue somehow.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
Why Your Car Battery Keeps Dying. While car batteries slowly die over time, high heat, brutal cold, excessive use of vehicle accessories (after-market equipment), and other mechanical issues can shorten the life of even the toughest battery.
Here is how to tell if your car battery is dying:
> Clicking sounds – If you hear a clicking sound when you attempt to start your vehicle, then it is possible that your vehicle has a flat or weak battery. The clicking sound could be the starter motor, and it means that there is not enough power getting to it. >
If your car won`t start and you hear a `clicking` sound from the engine, it is likely to be a dead battery. If your car won`t start but the headlights work, it is possible that there may be some issues with the starter or engine itself.
If the vehicle sounds weak when you turn the key, as in it cranks slowly, or struggles to turn over, then it is most likely a battery or starter issue.
What may drain a car battery when it`s off are things such as interior lights, door lights, or even bad relays. While your engine runs, the alternator recharges the battery — which is why you typically don`t have to worry about the battery dying while you`re blasting the radio on your drive to work!
A: That is sulfuric acid “sloshing” around inside, that is required for the battery to function, as it is known as a “lead/acid” battery and is completely normal.
A bad starter actually sounds quite a lot like a dead battery – you turn the key, and all you hear is a click. It might not be the entire starter, though – it could be a weak component known as the solenoid. It prevents the starter from creating the correct current to start your car.
Battery Problems
There are a number of signs that your car battery is dead. Firstly, listen out for odd noises. Low pitched whining noises and the noise of a cranking engine without it starting are both signs of a dead battery.
Can a car battery be “too dead” to jump-start? No, a car battery is never “too dead” to jump-start. If the jump-start doesn`t work, you may have a faulty alternator or a dead battery that necessitates a replacement.
Freewheeling. Freewheeling occurs when you crank the engine and simply hear a whining noise without the engine cranking. When this occurs, it means the starter is not engaging with the flywheel. This is a worrying situation which could result in having to replace the whole component.
One of the symptoms of a bad starter is a clicking noise when you turn the key or push the start button. However, a starter can die without making any sound at all, or it may announce its impending death with whirring and grinding noise—so listen up!
Typically, there are three possible sources of a grinding noise when starting the car: the battery, flywheel, or starter. Hearing grinding usually indicates an internal problem rather than an issue of, say, starting your car in the cold.
Your car`s battery holds a charge, but the alternator works to recharge it while the vehicle is on. That`s why you can drive all day long without a problem but leaving the lights on overnight will drain the battery. If the alternator begins to fail, the battery will no longer recharge while the engine is running.
If your car charging system isn`t working properly, your battery can drain itself even while you`re driving. Most cars power their lights, radio, and other systems from the alternators which makes the battery drain worse if there`s a charging problem.
If your alternator fails when you`re far from home, you can typically drive up to 200 miles on battery power alone. That`s assuming your battery is in good shape and fully charged. Of course, it`s best to get the alternator repaired or replaced as soon as you can.
Failing alternator bearings:
The alternator has several bearings which allow the alternator`s rotor to spin freely. If these bearings begin to fail, you will notice a loud whining noise, which will increase when you accelerate or the car is under heavier load.
If you`re hearing a grinding sound in your car, this could indicate that the alternator is going bad. The grinding sound may be caused by a worn-out bearing. Your car can also make a whining sound when the voltage regulator is sending signals to the alternator to charge more than is necessary.
Alternators can go bad suddenly, or slowly over time. If your alternator is slowly going bad over time there are some warning signs you can look out for.
Engine Is Slow to Start
If the battery`s power is fading, this can have an impact on how swiftly the engine starts. Pay attention to how long it takes for the engine to start after you`ve turned the ignition. If the car`s engine is taking longer than usual to get fired up, a weak battery may be the culprit.
The battery will charge faster if you rev the engine faster. Why? Because the faster the crankshaft turns, the faster it turns the belt that runs the alternator. And the faster the alternator turns, the more electricity it produces to run all the electrical stuff in the car — and recharge the battery.
Internal components: A weak battery affects performance by causing damage to the engine`s internal parts. The low voltage causes the temperature to go up, and overheating can result, which causes damage to the engine parts.
Usually a rapid clicking noise is a good indication that your starter motor isn`t getting enough electrical current to engage – basically your solenoid is trying to engage but can`t make the connection.
A starter motor`s lifespan varies between automobiles, but you can expect to get about 100,000 miles out of the factory starter. Stringer Auto Repair advises that your starter may start to go bad once the odometer has reached this coveted mileage milestone.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
My truck died while driving. Now will start, but dies when I push brake. If I start in neutral, I can put in drive and go but dies – 2003 Ford F250
ANSWER : Hello – your symptoms suggest that once your cold start features are no longer needed – engine warming up – there is an air "leak" that ruins low speed running. Causes could be a leaking exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, or leak in the air intake. A failing fuel pump relay (burned contacts) could cause similar behavior, contacts become hot, then won’t pass enough current to run the pump. Failing pump can also act this way – gets hot and fails. I recommend a starts, then dies inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.
Read Full Q/A … : Swishing noise when starting and battery keeps dying
Swishing noise when starting and battery keeps dying
ANSWER : Hi there. It is possible that a charging wire running from the alternator to the battery that is damaged and needs to be replaced. If the alternator was tested and was good, then it’s possible that you have a stuck electrical relay that is causing what’s known as a parasitic battery drain. This would not explain the noise however, so it might be a good idea to have a professional mechanic complete a car is making a noise inspection to determine what is causing this noise and if it’s related to the battery issue somehow.
Read Full Q/A … : Swishing noise when starting and battery keeps dying
Fuel pump engages. Batery good, alternator good volts, jump start helps when wont start. Temp does not matter. Intermittent?
ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.
Read Full Q/A … : Swishing noise when starting and battery keeps dying
Cranks over start than dies
ANSWER : Hi There,
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
Read Full Q/A … : Swishing noise when starting and battery keeps dying
2005 Chrysler 300C changed battery and alternator. Car started, ran, and then battery light came on. Shut car off and wouldn’t start.
ANSWER : Hi. There is a couple of things that could be wrong here. The battery or alternator that was just installed could be defective. Theses parts need to be tested for proper operation. There also could be a fuse, fusible link, or wiring for the battery or charging system that is blown or broken causing the battery light to come on.
The codes that you have will cause the car to shut down, run rough, or not start at all. The crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor should be replaced. I suggest having a certified technician from YourMechanic come diagnose the charging system and check engine codes to help you proceed with correct repairs.
Read Full Q/A … : Swishing noise when starting and battery keeps dying
My car will not start Intermittently. I purchased a new battery 2 weeks ago and yesterday the car wouldn’t start. Got a jump and
ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
Read Full Q/A … : Swishing noise when starting and battery keeps dying
New battery & fuel pump. Hours later car starts and shuts down 3X in a row. Finally it starts, 48 hours later, won’t start at all
ANSWER : Checking all the fuses was a good move. I would also want to put a scan tool on it and check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) as well as seeing the data that the computer is seeing.
A fuel pressure test would be a good idea to verify correct pressure and so that you’d be able to eliminate that possibility. It should be 58psi on your Magnum.
I also recommend getting your battery tested (I know, it’s new, have it tested anyway) and be sure it’s charged to at least 75%. And yes, loose battery cable connections can result in electrical problems.
If you need some assistance with this, consider enlisting a certified mechanic who can perform the checks I’ve mentioned and diagnose your starting issue firsthand. The mechanic can then perform the necessary repairs once the problem has been isolated. Good luck.
Read Full Q/A … : Swishing noise when starting and battery keeps dying
Vehicle won’t start, once it’s jump started it only stays running until you turn it off, then it work start again without jumping.
ANSWER : Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.
Read Full Q/A … : Swishing noise when starting and battery keeps dying
