Rattling noise from front left during left turns or while going over bumps.
2014 Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4×4 with Hemi. A mnth or so ago the truck started making a 'rattle' noise from the front left when making left hand turns or going over bumps. No noise when going straight. Need to be going about 15mph or over while turning left to produce sound. Sound is similar to a pebble being shaken around in a hard plastic or tin can. Initially thought a pebble was caught behind the plastic hub cap that snaps over the lugs. Not the case, the cover is empty. Noise can be heard only during left turns or hitting bumps. Noise also present when 4wd is engaged, Hi and Low. Honest
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. Base on the information you’ve provided this may be a result of the leveling kit installation. I would check the caliper on the left front and make sure the mounting bolts for the caliper and pads are proper tightened. Then check the installation of the shock to see if the nut is overtightened and squeezing the bushing flat; simply look a the top of the shock and see if the bushing is flat and allowing the metal washers to make contact. Also check the sway bar link for similar signs as noted for checking the shock. The last thing that I would suspect is a wheel bearing that may not have been properly tightened or may need to be torqued. YourMechanic has several technicians that can provide you with a proper suspension inspection for the noise and advise you further on repairs.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
The rattling noise means that something isn`t right with the way your wheels are attached to the car. For example, a lug nut may have come loose and started rattling as the wheel turned around. Have your tires and wheels checked as soon as possible.
A clunking noise over bumps is likely a sway bar link, ball joint, or strut/mount. A front end suspension component with play will cause the noise you appear to be describing. Lifting the wheels off the ground and giving it a `shake down` should determine the cause of the noise or any safety concerns.
The biggest reason for this shaking problem is the condition of your rotors – the disc your brake pad clamps down on when you apply your brakes. Most commonly, the vibration happens because the rotors have some kind of imperfection on their surface or they have changed shape (warped) over time.
Tie Rods: A clunking sound as you turn can be a sign of a loose or busted tie rod. Sway Bar Link: When experiencing poor handling in conjunction with a knocking noise while you turn, your sway bar is likely the culprit.
CV Joints: If you notice a crunching noise when turning at high speeds, the main culprit is usually the CV joints. Power Steering System: A screeching or whining noise while turning at normal speeds could mean an issue resides within the power steering system itself.
Worn Ball Joints
Ball joints enable the movement of the suspension control arms and steering knuckles. To move smoothly, it`s crucial that these joints remain lubricated at all times. If they become dry, they may start making squeaking or crunching noises when you turn the steering wheel at low speeds.
Worn power steering pump bearings or a worn pump in general can cause whining, humming, or rattling. In this case, you might notice a lack of power steering power as well. In this case, your only option is to replace the power steering pump.
If you hear a grinding sound coming from your brakes, it`s usually a sign that your brake pads are worn out and their metal backing plates are rubbing against the brake rotors. When this happens, your brakes won`t be able to function properly, which can increase your stopping distance and make you more accident-prone.
Your Braking System Needs Lubrication
Without proper lubrication, there can be a grinding noise from your car`s brakes that is caused by the caliper bolts. The caliper bolts keep the brake calipers securely in place. However, over time they may begin to rust, which causes the grinding sound.
A creaking sound when turning your steering wheel may be nothing more than a sign that your suspension system needs lubrication, but it may be a sign of something more serious, including tie rod damage, power steering rack damage, or a failing strut/shock.
A CV axle can typically be expected to last for 80,000 to 100,000 miles under normal driving conditions. You`ll know when the axle is about to fail when you begin to hear a loud, rhythmic clicking noise coming from the front wheel as you turn. That noise is due to a lack of lubricant in one of the CV joints.
A clunking or knocking sound is another sign of a steering rack problem. The clunking noise will sound like someone knocking on your door but from below your car – “kok!”.
If a ball joint is beginning to fail, you may notice a clunking noise coming from the front wheels. This clunking noise will become louder and more frequent over time. You may also notice that your steering has been affected by the bad ball joint, potentially causing vibration in the steering wheel.
WHEEL BALANCING
An unbalanced wheel will cause the tyre to vibrate which then causes the steering wheel to shake. If there`s too much weight on one side of the wheel, it can cause the car to pull to that side as well as shaking the steering wheel.
If the power steering pump pulley starts to fail or intermittently binds, you might notice that your car`s steering will either not respond well when you turn the wheel, or it will respond excessively. When the pulley binds for longer periods of time, you may notice a burnt smell under the hood of the car.
More often than not, the rattling occurs after you take your foot off of the brake pedal, and can sound like shaking a bottle of spray paint. Most commonly, this rattle is caused by the brake pads, and that`s okay. Brake pads have a tough job and can sometimes expand from the heat they create.
The only noise a bad bearing and bad brakes have in common is grinding. The timing of the noise is another big clue. If the noise occurs only when braking, the issue is obviously bad brakes. If the noise shows up after about 30 mph, chances are it`s a bad wheel bearing.
Signs of Suspension Damage
Car pulling to the side while driving. Feeling an increase in bouncing or bumps on the road. Difficulty while steering. Vehicle sitting lower on one side.
The first indication of any trouble with suspension will probably come from an unusual noise. There`ll be a knocking, creaking or clanking from under the car. In extreme cases, your car might not want to drive in a straight line without you constantly making adjustments with the steering wheel.
If it`s a loose caliper, or a caliper bracket that`s not attached properly to the steering knuckle, you`d be more likely to hear the rattling when you go over bumps, too. Because the caliper is a larger part and would be banging up against its bolts, it would sound more like a knocking, rather than a rattling.
Common reasons for this to happen:
Excessive Pad Wear: The single most common reason to hear a grinding noise when braking is excessive pad wear. Once the material has been worn off the backing plate, you`ll be experiencing “metal on metal”.
As the damage worsens, a faulty CV can produce a loud click, popping, or clunk sound. When making a tight turn at a low rate, frequent brake noise at low speed (caused by damage to the outer CV joints) causes grinding noises. A bad CV joint also causes a vibration in the steering wheel and the car`s floorboard.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Rattling noise from front left during left turns or while going over bumps.
ANSWER : Hi there. Base on the information you’ve provided this may be a result of the leveling kit installation. I would check the caliper on the left front and make sure the mounting bolts for the caliper and pads are proper tightened. Then check the installation of the shock to see if the nut is overtightened and squeezing the bushing flat; simply look a the top of the shock and see if the bushing is flat and allowing the metal washers to make contact. Also check the sway bar link for similar signs as noted for checking the shock. The last thing that I would suspect is a wheel bearing that may not have been properly tightened or may need to be torqued. YourMechanic has several technicians that can provide you with a proper suspension inspection for the noise and advise you further on repairs.
Front end rattle when going over bumps in a 2010 Milan Hybrid. Also drifts left noticeably on flat road. Are the two related?
ANSWER : The rattle could be due to a loose or worn sway bar, strut, body panel, or other suspension component. As you are describing it, the noise sounds fairly obvious so a mechanic should have no trouble pinpointing the origin on examination. The pulling is caused by misalignment and among the possibilities are too much cross camber. That is, inasmuch as your car pulls to the left, the camber setting on the left side of the car is more "positive" (measured in degrees) compared to the right side and the difference between the camber settings, left versus right (that is the "cross-camber") exceeds 0.5 degrees. Excessive cross caster could also be a cause, as well as a vehicle thrust angle that exceeds 0.5 degrees, side to side differentials in tire inflation pressure, tire faults (belt separations) and so forth. What I would suggest is first schedule an inspection to get the noise resolved BECAUSE to perform an alignment check, and do an alignment, there can be no faults in the suspension. Consequently, if the noise turns out to be due to a loose or defective suspension part that must be fully resolved before the alignment can even be accurately measured. To schedule an inspection of the suspension, please request suspension diagnostic – noise and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
Very Loud Knocking noise from left rear wheel when turning left and braking
ANSWER : The problem could be in the transfer case unit, but the device is mounted closer to the driver than the rear wheel so the noises or vibrations are generally a little more obvious. Especially during sharp turns the transfer case and rear end assemblies are working pretty hard with the wheels turning at different rates. I suggest hiring one of our mobile experts to diagnose the noise you’re hearing. Wheel bearings and worn out suspension components like sway bar links cause similar noises.
The left front wheel makes a metal grinding noise when turning right at a slow speed – 2009 Cadillac CTS-V
ANSWER : Hi there – based on the symptoms you describe, I believe your left front wheel bearing is shot. I would recommend having the wheel bearing/hub assembly replaced by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, and repair this problem.
Front end makes a grinding noise when I turn. Is that something to do with the rack and pinion steering?
ANSWER : Hi there. The noise sounds like the wheel hub bearings are grinding as you are turning. Lift up the vehicle and put all the wheels off the ground and spin the front wheels. Listen and feel the wheels for any weird sounds and grinding feeling. If there is a feeling and grinding sound, then the hub bearings will need replaced. If the front wheels do not have the sound, then either the CV shaft has a bad ball bearing and needs replaced or the transmission has a grinding gear within the transmission. I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you diagnose the grinding noise that your are getting on the front of the vehicle.
Rattle sound coming from the front suspension over bumps?
ANSWER : Hi Cory. I watched the video, but it was very difficult to pinpoint a unique rattling sound that wouldn’t possibly be caused by driving on the gravel. In some cases when you drive on rough roads, a rattling sound will not come from a suspension component, but perhaps a loose exhaust bracket or perhaps a loose bushing somewhere. It might be due to a loose motor mount or steering stabilizer bar bushing – but without completing a car is making a noise inspection at your location, it’s really difficult for us to offer any additional advice or ideas.
Noise on left turn on right front wheel side.
ANSWER : Hi there:
On a Mitsubishi Outlander, it’s possible that the noise is caused by a steering stabilizer bar or the stabilizer bar bushing that’s attached to the body. In some cases, when weight transfer occurs and the bushing is either loose or misaligned, it can create a creaking type of noise during turns to the left or right side. However, what’s consistent about this type of noise is that is happens during one particular type of turn. It’s also common for engine mounts that are loose to make this common noise, or other suspension or steering components as well. Without taking the vehicle on a test drive and duplicating the results, it’s really difficult to pinpoint the source of this noise. You might want to have a mobile mechanic ride with you to let them hear or feel this noise.
Noise when turning
ANSWER : Among the possibilities are the strut bearings, strut mounts, the strut itself, the outer cv axle joints, and/or any suspension component, such as a tie rod end, ball joint, sway bar mount, or suspension bushing that is loose or worn, such that when the loose part frees up or moves, the movement is enough to cause a noise. All of these possibilities are fairly easy to evaluate, in turn, during an on site inspection and if you desire to set one up, YourMechanic will dispatch a certified Mechanic to both identify the origin of the noise when turning and outline your repair options. Please let us know how we can help you further.
