My steering is stiff, I just had the power steering pump replaced and it still didn’t fix the problem
My cars steering is stiff and the steering wheel doesn't return to it's position after turning. I just had the power steering pump replaced and that didn't fix the problem.
My car has 101000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Improper vehicle alignment, underinflated tires, and steering linkage defects including mechanical faults in the rack and pinion unit, can all cause hard steering and poor return of the wheel. The pressure line from the pump assembly could have a restriction and that would cause hard steering. Of course, double check pump drive belt tension just in case the issue is a poorly driven pump. Also, you should check the idle-up function for power steering. If that sensor system is not functioning, it could cause hard steering but would not be a cause of the poor wheel return. If you want the necessary diagnostic steps performed by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request a power steering diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this problem resolved for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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Sometimes after a power steering pump is installed, reduced pressure inside the hydraulic lines will build, which can create the symptoms you`re experiencing. IIn other cases, low power steering fluid levels can cause this to occur, as can air bubbles trapped in the hydraulic lines.
The most common cause of a stiff steering wheel is when you are running low on power steering fluid in your system. Often, this happens when there is a leak in the system from the pressurized hose area. Most of the time, it is due to a cracked or loose hose causing the fluid to leak out.
If your vehicle is only hard to steer when you first turn it on, then you likely have a damaged steering rack. Often this problem will go away when the car warms up, and the rack becomes hot and well lubricated.
Thick Fluid It becomes too thick to flow freely and lubricate all the parts of the system if you don`t change it within the specified period. It especially causes steering wheel hard to turn at low speeds. The only solution is to flush the old fluid out of the system and refill it with new, fresh liquid.
After replacing a power steering pump or pressure hose, it`s always a good plan to flush and bleed the power steering system of air. For most power steering-equipped vehicles, this is a simple process. Turning the steering wheel lock to lock several times will remove any unwanted air in there.
A stiff steering wheel
If it`s taking more strength than usual to turn your wheel, it means that the power steering fluid isn`t getting to the components designed to help you steer more easily. A faulty pump may be to blame.
Answered by CarsGuide. The power steering is an electrical system, so a problem with the battery could affect the power assistance. You should still be able to steer the car even without power assistance. It won`t affect the braking.
Another identifier to watch out for is a sudden squeaky noise coming from the engine. If you ever hear a grinding or squeaking noise coming from the engine when you turn the wheel, then that is a really significant indicator that your power steering belt has seen better days.
Some of the major causes for hard steering are less or thick fluid in the power steering, improper tyre pressure, damaged serpentine belt, etc.
So, depending on the stated factors, it can take 2-5 hours to change a power steering pump. It is recommended that car drivers get help from a mechanic for inspections and resolution of the problem in most cases.
Listen for the sound of air being purged as you cycle the steering. This may take up to 20 cycles or more. Between cycles, re-inspect the fluid reservoir and top off as needed. Once the fluid level stabilizes and no aeration appears in the reservoir, start your engine and see if your symptoms have been resolved.
Since your power steering pump is a simple machine, the most common cause of failure for a power steering pump is the bearing going bad. The bearing supports the shaft that connects the pulley outside the pump to the impeller inside the pump. After miles of use, it is not unusual for these bearings to wear out.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
My steering is stiff, I just had the power steering pump replaced and it still didn’t fix the problem
ANSWER : Improper vehicle alignment, underinflated tires, and steering linkage defects including mechanical faults in the rack and pinion unit, can all cause hard steering and poor return of the wheel. The pressure line from the pump assembly could have a restriction and that would cause hard steering. Of course, double check pump drive belt tension just in case the issue is a poorly driven pump. Also, you should check the idle-up function for power steering. If that sensor system is not functioning, it could cause hard steering but would not be a cause of the poor wheel return. If you want the necessary diagnostic steps performed by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request a power steering diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this problem resolved for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
Power steering pump on 2012 Acura TL needs to be replaced. Due to location a power bar also needs to be replaced. Cost over $3,000. Is this a good price?
ANSWER : Question sent to CS for a quote on replacing the power steering motor, programming, and replacing an electrical component attached to the motor. This is in comparison to a quote that was given for the parts and labor.
Not getting power to the fuel pump and the secondary air injection pump fuse keeps blowing
ANSWER : There are quite a few reports of PCM (Powertrain Control Module, AKA computer) failures causing your problem, but before you go replacing the PCM, do some more pinpoint tests. This may require you to find a wiring diagram of all the wires coming from the PCM.
The first thing I would do is to connect a scanner to the car and see if you can communicate with the PCM. As a technician, I have access to communities of technicians where repeat failures are reported. In these reports, it is most common when the PCM fails in this fashion, that you will not have PCM communication. If you do have communication and the Check Engine Light turns on with the key on, I would be leaning away from the PCM being the problem.
However, this is by no means conclusive. You could be correct in your thoughts about a wiring problem mid vehicle. On most GM vehicles, there is a connector along the frame rail for the wiring harness that services the fuel module in the tank. This has problems with corrosion because it sits under the vehicle exposed to the elements. But why am I doubtful of this, and this will require you to confirm where the power starts and stops, is you stated you didn’t have power from the fuse box. This would be before this connector and the fuel pump. If this is the case, I wouldn’t be thinking of a wiring problem mid vehicle anymore.
I am wondering if you confirmed the fuse box was getting power? It is a very common problem that when we move wiring we inadvertently move the damaged wiring and fix the problem for the short term. You may have done this when replacing the fuse box. Not to mention you seem to have an intermittent failure on your hands. This compounds the process quite a bit.
I’m not sure how you are confirming you have power at the various points, but I highly recommend a test light over a multi-meter. A test light draws current and a multi-meter does not. There can be voltage present but not a good enough connection to carry current. This is a very important distinction when you are battling bad connections. The problem with a test light though, is knowing when it shouldn’t be used. Some test lights draw too much current and can damage computer modules. Even us technicians perform tests on modules at our own risk.
The best way to test a relay is to simply use a jumper wire to bypass them. If I suspect there is a problem with the power supply to the fuel pump, this is the first thing I do. This way I can be sure it isn’t the relay or the PCM that turns the relay on. If the fuel pump does not run, use the before mentioned test light to find where the power stops. This requires you to methodically track the wire back to the fuel pump. I usually start at the central connector, if it has one. Not all of them do. I go directly to the pump if I can, but this is often not easy to access without dropping the fuel tank down. If you successfully confirm power to the pump, it maybe a bad ground, in which case the easiest way to confirm this is to add a ground yourself.
If this circuit checks out good, a few other things to check are power and ground to the PCM. Locate the wire from the PCM that powers the fuel pump relay. This can be done at the relay connector while you are testing the fuel pump circuit without the relay. When you turn the key on, on of the four terminals should receive power from the PCM for a few seconds. It will turn off after a couple of seconds if the PCM doesn’t see a signal that the motor is running. This is normal operation.
As for the air pump, I wouldn’t think this is an indication of the problem unless this occurred at the exact same time as the fuel pump failure. If so, I would suspect a wiring harness is shorting to ground somewhere. If they didn’t occur at the same time, this is most likely a separate issue.
The challenge you have here is isolating each part of the system. The PCM, the fuel pump relay, or a wiring issue. The PCM is actually fairly easy to check. Is the Check Engine Light on with key on and does it communicate with a scanner? Then follow the fuel pump relay test I outlined above. If it is a bad connection somewhere in the system, you will need a good wiring diagram and a well thought out plan to isolate where the problem is. This can be the most difficult to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent. Find a wiring diagram and study it carefully. If you’d like help, you can have a qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, to inspect your car’s loss of power and make the correct repairs.
Good luck. I hope I have been of assistance.
The power steering pump seal keeps breaking when pump is replaced.
ANSWER : There may be a restriction in the power steering high pressure line causing an excessively high amount of pressure in the line and the pump. If the belt tensioner for the power steering belt is a manual tensioner that can be adjusted, the tension may be too tight causing a high load on the bearings at the power steering pump drive shaft. You can try having the power steering system flushed to see if this will clear any blockages and be sure to use an OEM quality power steering pump as some aftermarket components are not manufactured as well as the originals. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out for a closer inspection of the vehicle in order to offer a more personal diagnosis if your power steering concerns.
had power steering pump replaced but power steering fluid is leaking
ANSWER : This suggests that you may have a leak somewhere else in your power steering system such as one of the hoses or the rack and pinion system. As you may know, the power steering system is a highly pressurized system that can have as much as 300+psi of pressure in the system at times, so it is not uncommon for these types of leaks to happen. If you’d like to get this fixed, I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose the leak in your power steering system and make the the necessary repairs to fix it.
Why no brakes
ANSWER : I would first recommend checking the brake fluid level. There needs to be ample brake fluid in the system to so that there is not a lack of hydraulic pressure. Secondly, check to be sure you do not have vacuum leak in the brake booster. As you may know, the brake booster operates off of vacuum pressure and when there is a vacuum leak, this can cause a loss of braking power from little to nothing at all. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home to diagnose your braking system and possibly repair the vacuum break booster.
Gm I need a power steering pump or should I get power steering fluid? I have leaks coming out what should I do
ANSWER : If the power steering pump is leaking then you should replace the pump since it is under pressure and no stop leak will stop it from leaking.
Chrysler 3.8 L. T&C power steering rack and pump replacement.
ANSWER : As you may know, the power steering rack pumps power steering fluid through a series of small reed valves that help to produce hydraulic pressure as the system is pressurized by the pump. This is what allows the power steering system to assist you in steering your car. When either the pump or the rack is not working properly, one or the other can sometimes over compensate for the other to a certain degree, but will eventually be overworked and fail. It sounds like this may have been the case in your situation. I would suggest having a second opinion on the previous mechanic’s work. If you’d like a professional from YourMechanic can come to your home or place of business to properly diagnose and repair your power steering system.
