Can I replace the ball joints on just one side, or should it be done one both sides?

ANSWER : If you change the ball joints due to wear on one side of the vehicle, then the other side will likely go bad in a short time. After replacing the ball joints on one or both sides you will need to get an alignment done. If you only replace one side, get the alignment done, and need to replace the other side in a month, another alignment will need to be done. I would recommend replacing both sides at the same time so only one alignment needs to be done and you have the peace of mind that your front ball joints will be good for a long time. If you need help with this replacement, YourMechanic can dispatch a certified technician to your location.

ANSWER : Suspension components on modern vehicles are not as heavy as they used to be. Components like control arms can be lighter and thinner. Ball joints are riveted or pressed into control arms. Sometimes bolted/screwed. Since replacing a ball joint will usually involve removing the control arm from the vehicle to either press or drill rivets out – which is more labor intensive, it can be a time and money saver labor wise to simply replace the entire control arm.

You are removing the old control arm and replacing it with a new one, complete with new ball joint and control arm bushings. Even if the control arm bushings are in good shape at the time the ball joint is replaced, they will eventually require replacement. You then have parts and labor involved again to remove the control arm, replace the bushings, then reinstall it on the vehicle.

Sometimes the ball joint replacement can be more cost effective in the long run, to simply replace the entire control arm. If you’d like to have this done, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to your home or office to service your ball joints.

ANSWER : The ball joint on this vehicle can be replaced separately from the lower control arm. However, on this vehicle it is also a known problem where the ball joint becomes loose inside the mounting in the lower control arm and will not hold tight any longer. This will require the entire lower control arm to be replaced. [https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/control-arm-assembly-replacement]

In order to know if just the ball joint or the whole complete lower control arm needs replaced, the lower ball joint will need to be disconnected from the steering knuckle and checked to see if it fits tight in the lower control arm. If it is loose, then replace control arm. If it fits tight then you will need to remove the ball joint from control arm and see if a new ball joint will fit tight in the control arm or control arm still will need to be replaced. This is why you were advised to replace the whole control arm.

ANSWER : Hello. The ball joint is available separately, and as part of the control arm assembly as you note. Although it can be purchased separately, removing it and replacing it into the control arm requires heavy duty presses and tooling (great force required). And if the control arm is aluminum, it is a more risky process since the aluminum is softer than steel, and the remove/replace process may not result in the ball joint fitting as tightly in the control arm as would be safe. For the mechanic, sometimes the separate ball joint is not readily available, only the control arm with ball joint. And the labor time to press out the old, press in the new may result in a more expensive repair anyway because of the additional labor cost. It’s a toss up sometimes, especially with parts availability being a deciding factor.

ANSWER : To give you a usable answer, we (and possibly a lab) would have to have the failed part in hand to determine the failure mode. The problem is there are quite a few disparate causes for a failure of the type that you are describing which includes improper assembly, metal fatigue around the joint, product and/or design defect and so forth. Depending on the failure mode, and the full set of circumstances, this might be a situation where the failure should be reported to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration in the event that you have unwittingly stumbled on a "product defect" (such reporting could save other people’s lives and that is no understatement). These reports to NHTSA are easy for consumers to enter online at www.nhtsa.gov and/or you can simply call their 800 number to make a report.

Ball joints are obviously designed to withstand tremendous impact forces and thus are not typically "broken" by even substantial potholes. That fact has meaning of course because you claim to not have even hit anything and yet the part failed. Obviously, you don’t want that happening at 65 miles per hour while trying to negotiate a winding curve.
Consequently, in your circumstance, what I would do, is first ask the shop WHO the manufacturer of the control arm is. Aftermarket parts are not created equal. Depending on exactly what company manufactured the part, I might be able to offer more specific advice as to how to interpret this or what action to take.

But, what I would do is take that "who" information to a Mechanic who is highly knowledgeable about the "parts" aspect of the automobile repair business and both get his view and have him re-examine the OTHER side. Going forward, generally, a SAFE choice for parts is OEM (dealer). A lot of repair facilities will not use OEM parts, or the BEST parts, and yet charge you full fare. It may be best to have a second opinion on the work that was already completed. A certified technician from YourMechanic can perform a thorough inspection of your vehicle and provide necessary information to address this. Hope this helped.

ANSWER : Hi there. Something is apparently being overlooked, concerning the lower ball joint replacement. The lower part of the ball joint is inserted into the control arm (retained by a circular clip) and the upper part is inserted into the steering knuckle (retained by a through bolt). Repeated failure would, lead me to believe, there is a fitment problem and/or undo stress is being placed on the ball joint. This could be the result of a bent lower control arm. It could be result of a bent subframe and/or bent strut assembly placing undo stress on the lower ball joint. An alignment may help identify the area of concern. I recommend having your vehicle’s repeated lower ball joint failure be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : A lot of times, when you’re installing a ball joint into the lower control arm and trying to tighten the nut to lock in the ball joint shaft, the shaft will spin if you do not have enough pressure on the lower control arm. You will need to use a jack under the control arm as close to the ball joint as possible to push up on the joint so that the weight of the vehicle pushes the ball joint tight; then you should be able to tighten it. Make sure when using a jack under the lower control arm that you keep the vehicle supported with jack stands. If you need any professional assistance with this repair, you can always contact a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : The lower ball joints on this vehicle can be replaced individually. The upper ball joint is usually included with the control arm but, depending on your VIN, the upper joint is available separately as well. You should examine the bushings on the upper arm to determine if it is worth just replacing the ball joint as you might need control arm bushings as well. If you desire that the ball joints be inspected, and replaced as necessary, by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request a front suspension – ball joint inspection/replacement and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.