2005 liberty evrything works but it will not crank have replaced ignition actuator, ignition switch, tried starting with screwdriv

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Without knowing all of the testing you have done, I always recommend making sure the basic components are working perfectly. This means making sure your battery is good, its connections (ground and both terminals) are clean, dry, and tight, and make sure your starter is working. Then turn to your fuse box and check the starter relay, and any fuses your vehicle may have pertaining to the ignition switch. From there if you need to, you will want to look into the wiring and connection to the starter switch. Using a voltmeter is easiest. Your goal is to trace the available power to each component and find out where the voltage drop is coming from. For more diagnostic help, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.

ANSWER : I would first look at the diagnostic trouble codes. Those codes are available because the check engine light is on. If the fuel pump is not running (momentarily) at key on, that fault alone will prevent the car from starting as there will be no fuel pressure. Pump output and pressure can be directly tested and you can also check for electrical power to the pump. To find out why the engine will not run, the recommended diagnostic is a no start diagnostic. If you request that service, the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hi there. It looks as if you have covered most of the bases. However, it is possible that you may have an exposed or faulty ground wire, damaged ignition relay or starter relay. It is also possible although unlikely, that something in the timing system is causing the timing to be too far retarded, which can cause starting issues you’ve described. This might be a case of chasing parts only to have a different issue pop up, so it might be a good idea to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a car is hard to start inspection.

ANSWER : Hi There,
The catalytic converter is entirely unrelated to the ignition switch and neither of these should impact the other. The catalytic converter converts toxic exhaust gases into less harmful pollutants that are suitable to be expelled into the atmosphere. When the catalytic converter is clogged, this causes these gases to be backed up into the exhaust system not allowing the engine to breathe properly. When this happens, the engine is forced to work much harder to expel these gases. This often results in the engine bogging down, hesitating, shaking and causing very poor fuel economy. This should also cause a check engine light to come on as the O2 sensors should be reading the incorrect amounts of oxygen in the exhaust gases if this is your problem. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and replace your catalytic converter.

ANSWER : First, let’s make sure about some terminology before I proceed. I will assume the motor is actually turning over. If the car is trying to start, the motor has to be turning over or it is not trying to start. This is an important distinction when diagnosing the starting system. As a technician, I go to different parts of the system based on this description.

If the key is stuck in the start position, this is a ignition lock cylinder issue and the reason the starter continues to turn the motor over. If the starter is turning but the motor is not, then the starter is likely the problem. Either that or the teeth on the flex plate are all gone. This would require removing the transmission to repair.

If the car runs intermittently, this can be a big challenge. And it also means the starting system is working. It will need to be diagnosed when it is failing. A working car cannot be diagnosed because there is nothing wrong. Where you park your car should not have any affect. It certainly could be a wiring problem. Wiring problems hide really well and can happen anywhere in the miles of wires that are in your car. Isolating the system that is failing is really important here. At the moment I am unsure which system is failing. Starter system, ignition lock cylinder and or ignition switch electrical or something with the engine control system.

When the car is failing, you need to check for spark and fuel pressure. If neither is present, this is a clue. Usually the crank sensor will do this. Does your car have a tachometer? If so, does it move at all when cranking. This is a clue whether or not the cam and or crank sensor is working. Is there a Check Engine Light on with the key on? If there is a Check Engine Light, the code or codes can be used for specific diagnosis.

All of these concerns will send you down a diagnostic path. Be sure not to confuse yourself by misinterpreting multiple system failures. If the key does stick in the start position, this would be the first problem to solve. After that, does the motor actually turn when the starter turns? After that, the question of "Why won’t it start?" is first answered by finding what the motor is lacking. Fuel, spark etc… Good luck.

If you need assistance with these checks, contact a certified mechanic who has the tools and experience needed to properly diagnose this starting issue with your car.

ANSWER : This may be a sign of a faulty ignition coil. Ignition coils are coated with a varnish-like insulation that becomes brittle over time after being stretched then contracted repeatedly. The insulation develops small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and decrease or eliminate the coil’s ability to function. This type of temperature cycling happens because every time you shut the engine off, the fan stops running, the coolant stops flowing and the temperature under the hood rises. Every time you start the engine again the coolant flows, the fans turn on, and the temperature drops. When this heat dissipates and is absorbed under the hood, it is trapped causing this cycling effect. Other components that contain heat sensitive materials include parts like fuel injectors, igniters, and some sensors. Any of these may be potentially subject to this same kind of heat cycling problem which can be very difficult to trace. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to take a look at your vehicle.

ANSWER : Hi there. Check the battery and see if it has a charge of 12.6 volts. If the battery is low on charge, then charge up the battery and then remove the negative battery cable (-) from the battery. Then fix up the ignition switch to the new switch. Since the old switch is giving you trouble, put the new switch back in and make sure that the key works. Then take a digital meter and check for a voltage on the negative battery cable (-) to the negative battery post (-). If there is a battery voltage, then go in the vehicle and turn on items in the cab with the ignition switch off. When the meter reads 0 volts or near 0, then that item is on all the time and causing the battery to discharge itself. A dead battery or a low charged battery will cause the relays, resistors, and the electrical system to act up and not function correctly. If you need further assistance with your vehicle trying to start when it’s already running, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.