Truck tries to start itself

ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.

ANSWER : It is very likely that you have a powertrain control module failure. This can happen often on many GM vehicles. I would recommend having the powertrain control module tested and replaced as necessary in order to resolve this issue. After the powertrain control module is replaced, a reflash procedure will be required so that the vehicle can relearn all of its primary engine data. Once the reflash is completed, your vehicle should no longer have this issue.

ANSWER : Hi There,
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. I’d be happy to help. It sounds like you should disconnect the connector to the fuel pump and inspect it for any signs of getting hot. The female connections may be too loose on the fuel pump and lose contact after running and getting hot. If there are indeed any signs of problems, then I’d suggest replacing connector and adding dielectric lube to pins before installation. This should solve the problem, but if you continue to experience issues, feel free to reach out to us for help again.

ANSWER : Hello – your symptoms suggest that once your cold start features are no longer needed – engine warming up – there is an air "leak" that ruins low speed running. Causes could be a leaking exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, or leak in the air intake. A failing fuel pump relay (burned contacts) could cause similar behavior, contacts become hot, then won’t pass enough current to run the pump. Failing pump can also act this way – gets hot and fails. I recommend a starts, then dies inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : Since the symptoms changed when you touched the battery terminal, it leads me to believe you may have a poor connection and the main battery terminals. If they are badly corroded or have any small cracks, the terminal may be too loose on the battery. You can rule out the battery by removing the connection to the vehicle then testing the battery itself. If the battery is good then reattach the terminals, tighten them and see if you are able to wiggle them on the posts. If the terminal still moves, replace the entire cable. You can cut the terminal ends and replace them, but you will never get as perfect a connection as replacing the whole cable. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out and take a closer look at the loss of electrical power situation and run tests to offer a more personal diagnosis.

ANSWER : Hi there. Putting a penny in place of a fuse, not recommended, replace with the correct fuse. The fuse is there, to protect the circuit. If the fuse blows, there is a short to ground. The grinding sound, when you try to start your vehicle, could be the starter. The starter drive could be at fault or the flywheel has a problem. I recommend having your vehicle’s no start be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : Hi there:

Without being there to inspect your vehicle, or having information about what type of car, truck or SUV you own, it’s very hard for us to give you some advice. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection; so they can come to your location and determine why your vehicle is having these issues.