Brake master cylinder
I just replaced all 4 rotors and pads. As i compressed the last caliper, the master cylinder started overflowing. Is it possible the resevor simply had too much fluid in it. Or do you think I really messed up.
My car has 80000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi and thank you for contacting YourMechanic. Most likely what has happened is that when you were compressing the caliper to install the new brake pads, you compressed the caliper too fast and blew out the inner seal(s) in your master cylinder. At this stage you will need to replace your master cylinder. If you would like to have this done, YourMechanic can send a certified technician to you and perform all necessary tests to determine the cause of the brake problem and proceed with the correct repair.
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These are brand new Nissin calipers – Honda OEM manufacturer.
With an OEM pads, the fitment is exact because the tolerances demanded by Honda are tight. Brake pads are vital to your safety. Honda and other major automakers know that the future of the company rides on the safety and well being of their customers. As a result, OEM brake pads are always top tier in terms of quality.
Prestone – DOT 3 Brake Fluid: MAX Synthetic, Highest Grade, Superior Protection, 100k miles, 32 oz (Part No. AS410)
On average Honda dealerships charge 910-$1050 to replace brakes this includes a complete Honda rotor and brake pad replacement. At Brakes To Go, on average we only charge 750-$880 plus we come to you to replace your Honda brakes.
With 4-piston calipers, you have one brake pad and two pistons on each side of the disc. The greater number of pistons results in a more powerful braking setup, since more force can be applied by the pistons on the pads.
What Are the Types of Brake Calipers? Brake calipers are of three types: Floating brake calipers: They have pistons only on one side of the rotor, making it slide back and forth towards its inboard side. Fixed brake calipers: They are fixed using a bracket and usually lack sliding pins.
What are Honda OEM parts? OEM stands for “Original Equipment Manufacturer.” That means they`re made in the same manufacturing facilities as your Honda vehicle. Honda OEM parts are precision-engineered to provide a perfect fit with your Honda every time, meaning there`s no trial and error to find the right fit.
Genuine OEM parts typically offer better reliability, warranties and fitment than aftermarket parts. On the other hand, you have more variety with aftermarket or third-party auto parts, and they may even perform better than OEM components when towing large loads or racing.
Honda Genuine OEM DOT 4 Brake Fluid 08203-0004.
You can expect your rotors to be good for 30,000 to 70,000 miles. Again, your owner`s manual will have a recommendation on when to replace rotors. If you have any concerns about your brake rotors, schedule an appointment with Metro Honda.
How much should four rotors and brake pads cost? Each rotor might cost anywhere from $30 to $75. For each axle, labor costs between $150 and $200 to replace the rotors and pads. The cost of brake pads and rotors per axle ranges from $250 to $500.
Rotors cost between $30 and $75 each. Higher-quality rotors like Duralast Gold, which feature a coated hat and edge and are designed to outperform your vehicle`s original equipment, usually cost a little more. Labor at a shop to replace rotors and pads is approximately $150 to $200 per axle.
Due to their durability, though, it`s common for brake calipers to be replaced every 100,000 miles or ten years. Routinely having your vehicle inspected ensures every part in your braking system stays in proper working order for as long as possible.
Brake caliper sticking is caused by one of three things — slider pin seizing, caliper piston seizing, or brake line obstruction. To make things worse, one can cause the other two, so it`s not uncommon to run into all three, or at least two of the above issues when you start pulling the caliper apart.
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Low brake pedal and anti-lock brakes are not kicking in.
ANSWER : The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
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Changed brake master cylinder, bled 10 times, and the pedal is soft The rear brakes are not locked but close. Truck now running rough.
ANSWER : You will have to bleed the brakes from the farthest location all the way to the master cylinder. There is still air in the lines causing the issue. Check the vibrations on the vehicle to see if the engine mounts are damaged or if the brakes are not releasing causing the engine to run harder than normal to overcome the braking force. If you need further assistance with your vehicle’s brake system, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
Read Full Q/A … : Brake master cylinder
I just replaced my brake master cylinder and the brakes still feel soft. What do I need to do after I replace the master cylinder
ANSWER : From what you’ve described you will have to bleed your brakes. Also, I believe you may have a leak in one of the lines. You may want to use a wrench and tighten the lines a little more. If you’re unable to fix this yourself, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to your home to bleed your brakes, diagnose the Check Engine Light, and help you make the appropriate repairs to your car.
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Could the brake servo booster that the master cylinder attaches to cause the brake pedal’s excessive travel?
ANSWER : Hi there. Typically, when a brake booster fails, the result is a hard to push brake pedal. The pressure release you hear is engine vacuum and may be normal considering, the brake pedal travels to the floor. With no apparent leak(s) in the hydraulic braking system, the master cylinder internally bypassing is the most common failure. Having replaced the master cylinder, this leads me to believe, there may be air trapped and a flush may resolve this concern. Assuming, the vehicle is equipped with ABS (anti-lock brake system). The ABS hydraulic modulator assembly may be internally bypassing. I recommend having your vehicle’s brake pedal issue diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.
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Soft brake pedal after replacing rear brakes and master cylinder 2003 Audi A4
ANSWER : Hello. If you have no pressure to the rear calipers at all and if the master cylinder is new then you may have forces some debris into the ABS unit when you compressed the pistons in the rear calipers. In some cases the system can be pressure bled to fix it but it may need a new ABS unit.
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Replaced master cylinder and brakes still going to the floor and not working. Bed both master cylinders and each wheel.
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. At first it sounds like you may still have air in the system. The other option is that you may have a leak somewhere. Try to bleed the master cylinder and the lines again. The new master cylinder must be bench bled off of the vehicle exactly as the instructions say. The other problem could be a leak on the system. You should check for drips, puddles forming, or other signs of leaking brake fluid. Worst case scenario, the replacement master cylinder may have come to you faulty in the first place. This is rare but can happen, especially when it comes to remanufactured master cylinders. New ones typically don’t have issues. If you would like help, consider having an expert automotive technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to inspect and diagnose this issue for you, and make or suggest any repairs as needed.
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Hard brake pedal and rear brakes locking up.
ANSWER : Hi. I will help you with this issue you are having with your 2001 Durango. Unless you bled the master cylinder, it is possible there is still air in the system. If you car is equipped with ABS, air could have also gotten trapped in the ABS modulator. If ABS equipped, a bi-directional scan tool would be essential to manually activate the ABS system to clear air from that segment of the lines while you are bleeding the system. It is also possible that in all of this work somehow the proportioning valve has been affected causing the desired pressure differential, front versus back, to get out of spec. Using a 2,500 PSI gauge, you can check the pressures at each wheel and that will definitely give you a clue as to which brake circuit is the issue (or both), whether the proportioning valve is working properly and whether the line pressures at each wheel are within spec. Should you need a second opinion, by all means feel free to contact YourMechanic for assistance and we will diagnose and repair the issue for you.
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No brake fluid is getting to the rear brakes
ANSWER : As far as the brake issue, yes, there needs to be a check to see if there is brake fluid entering into the proportional valve. If there is fluid supply to the valve but not out then the valve will need to be replaced. Any electrical faults in the rear ABS system are generally indicated with a light illuminated and if so, then the flash codes can be read out. But with no light illuminated then there most likely no electrical failures in the system. If the source from where the brake fluid supply cannot be located, then you may want to enlist the help of a mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, to help with the diagnosis of your brake system.
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