Brake drum wear.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-dakota/403872-rear-drums-and-shoes.html#post3343569
Check out the post for a picture of my brake shoes. Long story short is that my brake drums didn't stay adjusted, resulted in a lot of rattling in the back and scuffed up the shoes pretty good. Now that they are adjusted it isn't as bad, but I'm wondering if the shoes are still good to use. I'm going to replace the drums because they are warrantied but I don't want to have to put on new shoes because it's a pain. Any advice would be appreciated. I only drove with the drums unadjuste
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
From the picture, it doesn’t look like much damage has been done to the brake shoe. The shoe isn’t brand new so you may experience some amount of noise or vibration coming from them. For the absolute best results, it would be a good idea to change everything out again to be on the safe side of things. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out and take care of installing the new brake components for you.

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Causes of brake drum damage:

This can occur if the brakes are used excessively, or if the brake system is not properly ventilated. Wear and tear: Over time, brake drums can become worn due to friction from the brake shoes, leading to damage such as scoring, grooves, or pitting.

As a result, most people are unfamiliar with how drum brakes work or when to replace them. The good news is brake drums are built to last 100K to 150K miles and are easy to maintain. However, the parts inside the drum need to be inspected and serviced more frequently.
Drum brakes are very different from disc brakes, but when it comes to maintenance and repair, most drivers don`t need to worry: drum brakes can last 200,000 miles or more.
Glazed rotors or drums: Brake rotors and drums wear over time, resulting in a glazed or rough finish. As a result, the brakes may make a squealing or screeching noise.
In most vehicles, the front brake pads will wear out faster than the rear ones because they handle more weight. This is unless your car is used for carrying heavy loads at the back regularly, in which case the brake pads will at the back wear off faster.
Over time, the friction material wears down and you will need a brake shoe replacement. Drum brakes have a longer lifespan and typically don`t need replacement as often, but it will happen eventually in the vehicle`s lifetime. Most vehicles have drums as rear brakes, with discs and brake pads at the front.
Drum brakes have some major design flaws: they overheat too quickly, take longer to dry off, and are typically heavier than disc brakes. At the same time, disc brakes cannot be used as a parking brake because they expand when hot and contract when cold.
Longer stroke reduces especially wear-related fade, but drum brakes are still fundamentally prone to fade when hot. After cooling, faded brakes usually perform as well as before, with no visible change to the brake shoes and/or pads.
the safety of your vehicle depends on the brakes. worn or damaged drums should be addressed as soon as possible. if your car is having trouble braking, stop driving it and have it towed to a repair shop.
They also struggle in wet conditions since moisture is more likely to get trapped inside the enclosure, making the brakes less effective. Drum brakes are much more prone to brake fade. Brake fade happens when the braking power diminishes due to extended overheating.
Most likely, overheated brake pads come from a malfunctioning caliper (disc brakes) or wheel cylinder (drum brakes). In either case, pistons that transfer hydraulic pressure to the pads can corrode and stick. When stuck in the extended position, the pads can build up enough heat to smoke.
When the brakes are engaged, the friction material on the brake shoes (or pads) makes contact with the brake drum to slow down or stop your vehicle. As a result, brake drums get hot through regular use. But occasionally, they can overheat.
Self adjuster failure is the most common reason drum brakes fail. The drum brake self adjuster is a small mechanism that`s responsible for adjusting the position of the shoes in the drum as the lining wears out. It`s pretty common for the self adjuster to fail due to corrosion.
Your front brake pads will also wear down faster than your rear pads. The front of your vehicle handles a lot more weight transfer as you brake, causing more wear. Over time heat and friction also contribute to brake pad wear.
Drum brakes have wider friction contact than disc brakes. The wider the friction contact, the greater the load the vehicle can withstand. So it can be concluded that the drum brake is stronger than the disc brake.
Brake pads generally last between 30,000 and 70,000 miles, but some can last as long as 100,000 miles. There are many factors that account for this wide range. First, brake pads come in a variety of types and compositions and are attached to even more varying brake systems and rotors.
50% left on your brakes means that after driving 35,000 miles you used 50% of you brake pad lining so you should be able to go about 25,000 miles on whats left of your brake pads, You don`t want to go too far with whats left because you take a chance of the pad backing hitting the Brake Rotor and that could be very …
If you`re wondering if you should convert your drum brakes over to disc brakes, the answer is a resounding yes. A drum to disc conversion is one of the best “bang for the buck” upgrades you can make to your vehicle.
From the 1960s to the 1980s, disc brakes gradually replaced drum brakes on the front wheels of cars (which receive the majority of braking force). Now practically all cars use disc brakes on the front wheels, and many use disc brakes on all four wheels.
But even with all of these benefits of disc brakes, drums have their positive points, too. Compared to disc brakes, drum brakes are generally more durable, requiring fewer lining replacements in a given period.
The friction that comes with braking can create lots of heat. Relative to disc brakes, drum brakes do a poorer job of handling this heat, and they tend to get hotter with repeated use.

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When I put my foot on the brake my back left brake light goes off, when I take it off the brake the brake light comes on
ANSWER : I would suggest trying to disconnect and reconnect the wiring to the rear lights. I have seen these older Toyota vehicles rear lighting short out on the lights themselves due to the way the light circuit was made on the lamp housing. Look at the housing circuit on the light to see if one is touching another, and that could tell you why it is malfunctioning. There could also be a problem with the brake light switch. If you are not comfortable dealing with wires, I recommend getting in touch with a certified mechanic who can look at your brake light issue for you to see what’s going on.

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EPC light on 2004 Jetta. Code said brake switch faulty, but brakes lights worked. Replaced brake switch, now no brake lights.
ANSWER : Hi there. The first thing that pops in my mind beyond of what you have listed is perhaps the electrical harness attached to the brake switch. Perhaps the harness itself is damaged or you have an exposed wire, loose ground wire somewhere. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a brake lights not working inspection to help you diagnose this issue.

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Low brake pedal and anti-lock brakes are not kicking in.
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Supportive bar attached to brake pedal interrupts proper braking process
ANSWER : It’s possible to have someone alter the brake pedal or adapt a brake pedal from a different vehicle. You may call around to some customization shops to see if anyone is interested in taking on the project. But first, I would try reaching out to the selling dealer with your concern – especially since it is a new model. Good luck.

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I replaced the brake light switch. Gear lever unlocked because it had locked. Now the brakes feel hard.
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. You need to check the brake switch install adjustment. You may have the switch adjusted too tight and it is holding the the brake pedal partly down. This will cause the brake master cylinder to not release the brakes when you let off the pedal. Readjust the switch away from the pedal until you feel some free play again in the pedal. This should fix the problem. If you would like help, consider having an expert automotive technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to inspect and diagnose this issue for you, and make or suggest any repairs as needed.

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Brake sensor is to sensitive causing brakes to flicker while driving. 2005 Mercury Montego
ANSWER : Hi there – your brake light switch needs a minor adjustment. It is adjusted too "tight" or close to the brake pedal lever, or possibly has failed. Adjusting/replacing it will eliminate this flickering problem. I recommend a brake light isn’t working inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

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Changed brake master cylinder, bled 10 times, and the pedal is soft The rear brakes are not locked but close. Truck now running rough.
ANSWER : You will have to bleed the brakes from the farthest location all the way to the master cylinder. There is still air in the lines causing the issue. Check the vibrations on the vehicle to see if the engine mounts are damaged or if the brakes are not releasing causing the engine to run harder than normal to overcome the braking force. If you need further assistance with your vehicle’s brake system, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

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Hard brake pedal and rear brakes locking up.
ANSWER : Hi. I will help you with this issue you are having with your 2001 Durango. Unless you bled the master cylinder, it is possible there is still air in the system. If you car is equipped with ABS, air could have also gotten trapped in the ABS modulator. If ABS equipped, a bi-directional scan tool would be essential to manually activate the ABS system to clear air from that segment of the lines while you are bleeding the system. It is also possible that in all of this work somehow the proportioning valve has been affected causing the desired pressure differential, front versus back, to get out of spec. Using a 2,500 PSI gauge, you can check the pressures at each wheel and that will definitely give you a clue as to which brake circuit is the issue (or both), whether the proportioning valve is working properly and whether the line pressures at each wheel are within spec. Should you need a second opinion, by all means feel free to contact YourMechanic for assistance and we will diagnose and repair the issue for you.

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